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i can only speak for my old school fk series (i think i have the first 6x10 every built by CET, maybe?...)
my printer really isn't supported any more by CET. not that i don't get support. but the techs that were the gurus on this particular model aren't at CET anymore.
one thing i do like...
for a small piece of aluminum you can generally just stick the aluminum right through any straight feed printer. some printers need some minor modifications on the clamp springs, or clamp guards. just coat it with CAB lacquer and print solvent ink right onto it. don't forget to turn the heat...
we've got a CET running 49 series ink and of the channels, white might be one of the most trustworthy. we've recently dialed down our negative pressure for all white and non-white ink prints with much improved performance.
because yellow is at the tail end of the capping station. that lends me to believe that you may have your caps misaligned and the yellow is camming up higher than the balance of the capping station. paint the edges of your caps with black ink. now park the heads on the caps. pull the...
are you sure that your shutters are opening and closing equally on both sides? if not you can get curebanding from one direction being less cured and also wetting a bit more before kicking to a cure.
fixed! exotic theory too.
well, my last mention of needing a new head was incorrect. i did the data swap incorrectly by switching the cables at the head board. this of course did move magenta data to the cyan head. and they cyan head did still do the weird pattern. and the cyan data...
maybe this thread is in vain? maybe it will help someone out seeing the same anomaly. i did a data swap and the same odd on/off (but less so) pattern appeared after the printer was booted
back up from the cyan head running magenta data during a test print. so, we are rotating a cyan head...
For the last few days we’ve been having cyan drop out. It prints fine for a few hours then it won’t print for two feet until we get
all kinds of dropout. It seems to get better with a pause/head clean but we have a non-functioning printer because it’s so bad.
I thought I figured it out...
rgb 8bit tifs at 150 dpi. i have a couple profiles in which my whites don't dither properly (output is like five shades of white) and other profiles that do a great job of white gradients. i haven't
figured out what the difference is. by accident i printed a .psd recently. i haven't gone...
i did a sign for a gallery using the frosted glass spray (rattle can) and 6 years later is still looks great. also, use 3030 colored acrylic. will give it a "real" glass look.
my consideration was with cure banding, there is a thread that has more dot gain than another. thus the color is different accounting for the lack of negative space between the dots. the first pass may not cure the ink completely. but i'm assuming with the first pass, it ends any possibility...
i'm so brain dead i can hardly decipher my own theory right now. (did an all nighter, still going). there'd have to also be a way to take into account that the ink is cured in a passive way intermittently between threads by the other lamp. or is the ink cured in one single pass of the uv. i...
this is a long shot. during printing, does it seem that one flap on your lamps opens wider/more aggressively than the other. you mentioned that it seems like alternating passes are of different densities. could this be some form of cure banding in which you've got more dot gain going one way...
it's quite a simple set up. save your current calibrated config file. save that file and title it "config print". now go back to your settings and drop all of your temperatures to something far less toasty and click "write". now save that config file to the same folder.
keeping both of...
we had a business coach that came over from our parent company. there were a few meetings and one on ones that were helpful. but all in all i felt that i was being forced into a predetermined mold that was a bit canned. you'd here the same one liners here and there and quite frankly, being an...
along with this CET/white ink discussion. i'd like to here what heat setting is common for the color. i looked at our settings and all the color is set to 40. that seems really cool. please chime in on this one because we are still really green with the machine and a tiny bit of advice can...
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