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My bet is a micro crack. That's the only way you could get that much cyan over into the magenta head. A damper wouldn't do that.

As the sequencing of test prints is important, I would ask if you did a cleaning before doing the green and cyan tests? To properly troubleshoot this issue, print red until you see the streaking get pretty bad, then immediately print the green and cyan tests, without doing a cleaning. To...

Don't see the test prints. I would especially like to see the green and cyan tests. Certainly, you should replace the cyan damper first, as it's the cheapest thing and simplest thing to do. If there is no change after that, then it's likely a micro crack. The ink droplets could be caused either...

Have you made any progress with our suggestions?

Suggestions never need an apology, and as you said, someone reading this thread may find your suggestion solves their particular problem. Keep 'em coming! My remark was meant to educate, that's all...

It's possible Q1 on the servo board is the culprit. See this thread - https://www.signs101.com/threads/xc-540-printing-blank.167937/. On the XC-540, it is on the headboard. BUT, on the SP-540V it is located on the servo board and the circuit connects to the mainboard through a wiring cable. I...

Just remember to use calendared with calendared and cast with cast. They have different physical characteristics that can cause issues when mixed. Due to how they are made - calendared has a memory characteristic that can cause minor dimensional changes depending on temperature, as well as other...

First, it is best to use the correct type of laminate, as opposed to clear vinyl as an overlaminate. Second, when doing contour cutting, if you are doing a bleed cut, i.e., no white border, you need to give it 24 hours before cutting. This allows all the solvent to dry and outgas. If you do a...

FYI, the SP-300V is USB only. I agree completely on standard network type of connections. Has the USB cable ever been snagged on and pulled out? As previously suggested, replace the USB cable, not exceeding 15 feet. If that doesn't work, then it is likely there is something wrong with the...

So, not using channels 7 & 8, which would be Wh & Mt. That makes sense.

My experience with this printing behavior where it starts out fine, then gradually gets this kind of color bleeding, and clears up with numerous cleanings and then gradually comes back again, is you likely had a head crash at some point and your printhead has a micro-crack between the cyan and...

FYI, you have this thread going in 2 forums. Please pick and use one forum, preferably the Roland forum, so things don't get confused or missed...

FYI, you have this thread going in 2 forums. Please pick and use one forum, preferably the Roland forum, so things don't get confused or missed...

Print until the black banding is really bad. Then - without doing a cleaning cycle - immediately do a nozzle test print and post it please.

OK, just to be clear - the sequence of alignments should be - in service mode - bias, vertical - go back and forth between these 2 until they are both perfect and you don't have to make any adjustments, as they are mechanical and one can affect the other. Then, still in service mode, do the...

Vastly improved! Questions... Did you also do the bi-directional alignment in user mode? And what resolution was the last sample printed at? Looks grainy...

Excellent! FYI, the transistor is located next to the fuses, if you haven't located it yet. It going bad would certainly cause all the heads to stop firing - see attached circuit diagram. Definitely putting that one in my memory banks! Appears to readily available and under $10. Would you post a...

Yep! I actually use both, like damonCA21 said, the spray for the bearing blocks and tight spaces, but I prefer the grease for the rails, so I don't have overspray issue.

Nah, no reason to feel dumb. You can use a lightweight machine like 3in1. I prefer the lithium grease as it doesn't run and won't dry out like oil will. I would go ahead and clean the rail and use what you have for now and see if it fixes the issue. You can always redo it with lithium grease...

Clean the guide rails thoroughly with a clean cloth and alcohol. Then lightly lube the rails with white lithium grease. Move the cut carriage and the printhead carriage back and forth the entire length of the printer 8-10 time to distribute the grease into the bearings. Wipe any excess grease...