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Very cool! I love unique stuff like this.

What do you use for the cleat? Curious what hot glues that well.

My experience with dry erase lam is that it is very sensitive to heat. I had a job do that once when it was put in a nursing home (it was quite warm in there). I re-did the job with Avery Anti-Graffiti Lam and had no problems.

My experience with lighted sign wholesalers in general (Esco being one of them), is that you just cannot count on them for a firm date. When you outsource, it is totally out of your control, but you are hanging on the line for the due date. I am reluctant to take on jobs like this where there...

I would think with the gazillion different codes that no one is going to do this except for charging an exorbitant free. Is there an architect involved? They should be handling this. Otherwise with basic ADA knowledge you should be able to handle yourself. Signs marking all rooms, stairs...

I am a recent convert of Signvox to Shopvox. We were on Signvox for about 3 years. Shopvox is still pretty new software, so it is a little rough in some spots. Be prepared for the conversion. If this is a peak time of year for you, I would hold off. The first week or two will be pretty...

Our conversion from Signvox to Shopvox was completed a couple of weeks ago. There was, as expected, a number of little issues in the changeover. Most were resolved pretty quickly by the support team. Expect to spend a decent amount of time learning the new software. It is a lot to grasp, but...

I am trying to match some existing Edge-grip stand-offs. Here are the specs: - 2.5" diameter - 3" tall - Clear anodized (brushed silver) - Edge grip (not Thru Stand-offs) These are crazy huge. I cannot find them at any of my usual sources (Gyford, MBS, Displays2Go, Sign Design Systems...

I would highly recommend using studs for mounting, not just adhesive. Here in the US you can rent one for about $150 or so. It is well worth the extra money. Also, don't do just "shoulders" - cut it all out of 1 piece if you can.

The shadowing shouldn't be too noticeable from a normal viewing distance. If this is viewed up close you could use 3M 467 adhesive so it covers the entire letter with no seams. Or you could rout the push thru letters and backing out of a single piece of thick clear plex.

I'm pretty tech savvy, but I've never had very good luck with anti virus programs and removing viruses. I believe anti virus programs just add more headache. I use common sense and rarely have problems. I have set up our systems here so all critical stuff is on the server, so when a problem...

First, Diamond Grade is not Engineer Grade, it is Diamond Grade. Very expensive and not sure if you can even die cut it with a plotter. It is primarily for traffic signs. Oracal 5700 has a 7-year life. Striving for life expectancy beyond that is pretty futile. For this purpose, that should...

Looking for any feedback from those that have converted from Signvox to Shopvox. I am interested in switching, but don't want to be a guinea pig. I realize there is a learning curve to the new software, but am hoping that all the user date converts over without issues.

Mesh will be more durable, especially with the cold weather coming up. It is better to cut the banner short and use stretch cords so the banner can flex with wind loads.

For interior windows, we have used a clear PET film, made by Lintec, sold by Drytac. You need a UV printer, I believe. For exterior facing windows, I think you would have to use the 3M vinyl.

I am looking for a good low to mid-volume roll-to-roll UV curable printer. Something speed-wise comparable to an HP Latex 360 printer. We have an Oce flatbed with the roll printing option, but it is not very robust. We cannot print to heavier or wide rolls very well. We have a couple of...

I used CD for many years, this was one of my big beefs with it. New versions were always very unpredictable, and it took a couple service packs to get it stable. We switched to Adobe a few years ago and I can't imagine going back. I'm not saying illy is perfect. Consider the benefit of using...

The steel sheet would give a little bit of strength, but not a lot. I'm not fond of thinning the glass. It would defeat the purpose of this - to look high-end and be very durable long-term. I think I'll try a little thicker gauge of steel and see if that helps.

I tried a piece of 26ga steel behind 1/2" thick glass. There is some magnetic pull, but not a lot. I'm guessing that is why the ones you find online are so thin (the only one spec'd I could find was 3/16" glass). My glass guy recommended no thinner than 3/8" for as large as my customer wants...

You are correct, 1" would be too thin. We typically use 1.5" for each side, 2" for large sizes like 4'x8'.