Search results

isn't this just monotype corsiva?

there can be. i've noticed that i tend to have to putty signfoam brand more than the green stuff. it just has more "holes" and you'll see that in the finished product.

I'd rather bump my prices 3% than say I'm charging a processing fee.

for me, how i'd price this is kinda simple. 1600x2=3200 Add in for time to cut and weed, say 4 hours at $95/hr=380. That puts you at $3,580. add 15% to that for misc costs (which covers your blades, tape, squeegees and such), which is $537. that's a total of $4,117, which at 3,000 pieces...

if you have to go the route of an adhesive , i would suggest Lexel instead of liquid nails. you're still gonna need some double sided tape or masking tape to hold the letters in place until it sets up, but it would be the best adhesive solution.

those are some mighty skinny letters for liquid nails. personally, i would do a stud mount into the brick, or i would adhere to a piece of clear acrylic and then attach that to the wall. double stick tape is kinda useless on brick.

how much vinyl are you using? would it not be easiest to figure that out, add in your mark up for the vinyl, cutting/weeding and 15% for misc. costs? i mean, that's how i'd bill it out.

Eurostile Extended and Swiss Bold? From first glance, that's what I'm thinking.

when a client send me artwork and asks for a quote on the project, i check the art first. if it's raster, i include a line item for tracing the art and include that a copy of the file will be supplied to the client at the completion of the project. i also include that if they produce a vector...

not sure you're gonna get a quick turn around. most custom braille work is at least two to three weeks out. at least that's why my local vendor is always at.

Binner D comes to mind off the top of my head.

ok, but how do you know who is and who is not prohibited from owning? like do you guys have to wear patches? or get star tattoos on your bellies?

defo looks like it isn't laminated. the runs in the print from chemical cleaning pretty much confirm this. it's on the installer if they ran the prints for this install.

I've had this happen too. it doesn't happen as much as it used to. i usually go through the standard checklist: is the cable plugged in properly at both ends? if you're using an extension at some point, are all the parts/cables still working correctly? turn it on and off again. using GSPtray...

seriously. why should i when the OP can't even put all the details in the original post? they basically asked, i applied vinyl to this fresh paint and don't know why it isn't sticking. where are the details? what type of vinyl? was it printed? what kind of lam? what kind of paint? how long...

i didn't read through all the responses. but what type of paint did you use? automotive paints are a minimum of 30 days to apply graphics. sign enamels, i usually wait at least 3-4 days (with the board is a temperature controlled environment if possible) before applying graphics.

if you're looking to hold onto the screen for repeated use, i'd suggest an aluminum frame. if it's a one off type thing, wood will work. mesh would depend on the artwork and how detailed it is. the more detail, the finer the mesh. you can make your own screens, too. i did that for years...

it appears that instead of have rivets all over the trailer, the aluminum is instead fitted to the next piece. YES PLEASE! i'll take this over rivets any day! i agree with rjssigns. apply the vinyl as if the seam isn't even there and cut at the seam and squeegee over the lower piece...

do you not have a PMS swatch book? would that not be the easiest way? my swatchbooks are older than some of the people here, but they still work well.

I have been running Composer software for a long time now and I still don't fully understand how the Choke/Spread works with multi-color jobs. I've tried and it just never seems to turn out right for me. I tend to just create my own and use overprint to create the look I'm going for.