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I would not try it. What I can say for sure is, the printer will do a cleaning after every 30 carriage scans. (Not if you run it in service mode...) But, you don't know the chemical compatibility of the two inks. It could clog your heads instantly and permanently. To avoid this you would need to...

could be wrongly connected flat cables or bad head. (The bow in the magenta shouts: bad head)

BN2-20

Strange, that it only started now. I had a case with a non-plus cutter, Flexi and Ethernet connection. (Didn't cut to the end.) With USB, it doesn't happen. Maybe some Windows update.

I'm pretty sure your "dust" is ink mist. Thats why you can't remove it. Try a MDF to spread the vacuum.

It should be solved with the latest FW. Roland uses new chips on the ink, that aren't recognized by old FW. Or run it in service mode.(then you need to switch on the heating)

Since this printer is only CMYK, the head adjustment needs to be spot on. Can be tricky on these machines...

I also have it in one unit. Just live with it...

Looks like their "complete rebuild" consists of cleaning the board and replacing the elcos. Maybe a reflow on top. The reflow cold help in this case, but there is no guarantee... I wonder how they test it, except they have a printer... But if it works, it's worth the money...

Head lock is cm5 and goes through IC6 (74LVC541) and finally trough latches into IC30A.

I'm not sure, if it's a good idea to ramp up the power supply voltage. There are several voltages generated on this board. When I remember correctly, there is one big switching regulator that creates 5V from 41V and 5 or so linear regulators creating voltages lower than 5V. It's even possible...

Roland has/had the best and most detailed service manuals of all suppliers in this market. There is no way to troubleshoot boards like these in depht without specialized test equipment. (Think of FPGAs or microcontrollers with programmable pins... is it input or output?) I don't do component...

Interesting... But it is, as the seasoned guys tell you. It could be a bad solder joint or even worse a crack in a PCB track or even mor likely in a layer to layer connection. I hold a EE degree and even with a scope, it's just guesswork. You can check the onboard voltage regulators and so on...

You need to stagger them by so many pixels, as the manual says. It is important to check the top line of the test print with a magnifier. Otherwise it's easy to be a complete line to far off.

There is a NTC on the printhead PCB. If this reads too cold or has a connection problem(flat cables, connectors), you get this error. Are you aware, that there are two different types of flat cables used, to connect the printhead?

Bad seals are not very common. I had it twice now. There were problems with the dampers and when the head is used for a while, it wont seal anymore, when you replace just the damper. It's just something, you need to be aware of. You get service calls 0380 or 0400 during damper fill. The filler...

The seals are (stupdly) built into the heads on these machines. I just recently had to trash a perfectly working head because of this.

Why do you want to do it?

Looks like the original board has a USB problem. The crop sensor is a optical sensor on the tool carriage. I'd need to check the manual to see, if your cutter even has one. Check the new board for a dip switch and set it the same way, as on the old board. This could solve your problem.

Looks like contamination of magenta into the yellow channel. Since you have multiple units, you could swap maintenance cartridges to test. I have seen this after SMK3, after a buildup of ink on the maintenance cartridge.