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I would go with a combo unit not just a dedicated router or cutter. Get one to do both. We have a Zund and its amazing. I have routed 1" Acrylic no problem. We knife cut all sorts of substrates. There are cheaper options like Colex but you get what you pay for. Esko and Zund are the two...

Its in the main settings right in the middle called Auto Clean. Just remember when done to turn it back to zero as it keeps track from job to job. On full rolls just make sure your material is in and tracking straight or you will get material starting to tunnel. I bypass the media roll...

we had our 1625 for a year and had a tech out every month fixing something. They finally agreed to do a swap as the problem could never get fixed. That is when we did the upgrade. It is much nicer...faster printing and have not had any issues with it.

Is your pump working properly? We had a pump that would go in and out. Once the pump was replaced no more problems. We got rid of our 1625 and upgraded to the 16H and are much happier with it. I have pumps left over if you need any.

I have seen prints off the AccurioWide. I think our EFI Pro16h has better print quality. The Ricoh heads EFI is usign will go to a 7 picoliter drop size I believe and the KM head is 12 picoliter.

To do a good 2 sided cling or vinyl you will need a blockout layer. The white ink itself wont block enough sunlight and will get ghosting images. To get this it is a three step process. Print the first layer reverse with white on top. Then print a second job of black. The last job will be...

We have an in house server set up. All files are stored on the server and we can access them from any computer connected to said server. We also have a backup that runs nightly in case the server were to crash. We can access the server remotely when needed.

Use the 5650RA. We install 4'x8' pieces on aluminum all the time for the Air Force base here. It is very easy to work with and does not get air bubbles.

I would recommend the EFI Pro 16H hybrid UV printer. I print a ton of magnets and clear vinyl/static cling using white ink. The white is very opaque and I run the 48" rolls of magnet as this machine has the roll to roll feature.

We have the Hydrogen/Oxygen Combo. Go to your local welding store that sells bottles and they can get you set up with everything your need. The torch is the same as you would use with a Acetylene set up but there is a different pressure gauge that is for Hydrogen. Yes we used to use propane...

If he would like to talk I would love to. If he has already priced Stouse that will be a tough one to bid against as I am not a national company. I was just stating my opinion of the Gerber Edge topic as that needing to be the best way to do it. In all honesty depending on the art screen...

Not true a UV printer with white ink will do just as well as a Gerber Edge. I get a better white saturation on UV then the Gerber Edge we used to have. Also if you have a bunch of colors UV is way easier to print.

a cheaper 100% cotton tee wont print as good as 100% ringspun cotton but they are not getting something right. I would tell them your not accepting that shirt and tell them to run another one or find a new vendor. Here is a shirt we printed on black to show that you can still get good colors...

There are a number of factors that go into print quality on DTG. What type of shirt was it? 100% cotton or a 50/50 blend? The pre treat is a factor as well. On the right garment and proper printing that is no where near the quality it should be. We print on a lot of black shirts without any...

I would for sure flush the lines to get all the ink out. Its a simple process at least on our 2 EFi printers (16h/24F). You simply put flush bottles in instead of ink and hit the purge button until all the ink is out. Once done take the flush bottles out wrap the floats in a ziploc bag with...

We have a welder for our banners and switched everything over to double needle stitching. The finished look is a personal opinion. Many of my customers are glad we went to stitching. If your doing smaller banners its great. If you do long banner a welder is a pain unless you have tables long...

Well I would have to say the exact opposite of Trotec. We have 3 Trotec lasers. We have been using Trotec for 10 plus years and only had a tech out once. We do our standard maintenance ourselves. We have had to send the arms back in to have new bearings installed a few times but that is...

in each setting you can change the resolution being used. In the Fiery rip under the Output tab then Special Printer Setting you can control the resolution and print mode(passes) from default. You can also create new workflow setting if you were wanting to use a bunch of different ones.

Not sure how it woudl work on your machine but we cut paper all the time on our Zund. We use Sihl 3686 paper printed on out Latex 560.

Depends on how the dasher was originally manufactured. We produce ours with a thicker scratch resistant type lam to make them last longer. If you have that then you could just apply over the top of that and remove after no problem. I would stay clear of the EZ Dot micro suction type materials...