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Good to hear. But, a proper profile/printmode should be able to handle RGB without over-inking like that. You need to look under the hood in the rip program and see if you can alter the amount of ink laid down before you print. It's handy for different materials or certain files. For instance...

Obviously laying down waaaay too much ink. Check the mix in your design program. If it's RGB, change it to CMYK. Set it at say 10,10,10,100. Or else check your rip settings - profile, max ink, passes etc.

I've seen this before. You've got a corrupted or open ended object in there. See if you can zoom to sign blank and poke around to find the offending object and delete it

You don't need to pull the head out and try to suck the fluid up. Just turn off the printer, push the head over to the left, remove the magenta dampers and use a syringe full of cleaning fluid to pulse in/out. You could even rig a little tray of fluid under the head nozzles to soak in.

Don't use acetone. Use only the same cleaning fluid as the ink. Which ink is it? Refillable bulk or sealed cartridges?

Yeah, I'd be suspecting the ink. Grab a fresh magenta cart and see if it clears up

PM sent. Although, looking at your test prints, it seems like there's one nozzle always on - as Solventinkjet said. You can see that it fires even over the media clamp. It's like you'd need to plug it up, but then what would be happening inside the head?

Damn. One rogue nozzle in that otherwise beautiful test print. How far apart is that stripe in the print? Every 25mm? Didn't Mimaki put something in their firmware that would print a stripe every 25mm if you used a non genuine head? Not sure if I'm remembering properly, but it was something...

Youch! I wonder if they used something harder like lacquer thinners? You don't need to remove the head to flush it. Take it to the left side and put a take-away container/tray underneath to catch the fluid

The maintenance fluid should not have melted the nipples or had any effect o anything in the head. See if you can inject the fluid through each channel. Start by pulling to see if you can suck air back through first, then inject fluid in and pump slightly. If it goes through, try pushing a bit...

I've never tried one. It may be worth a shot, but the risk is 100% yours because once you touch it/plug it in/ run ink through, they will not accept returns. Of course, being unused for 7 years means there could be other reasons that it won't work 100% too. You could try taking that head out...

check the bottom of the head for a bit of lint or something that may be wicking the cyan

Make sure all your fonts (ttf/vef/wfn) are installed to the same directory location on the new computer as they are in on the old computer. Otherwise, every time you open a job file it will ask you to locate the fonts!

What are you running it as now? Not dual CMYK, I presume? If not, change it to that. Those nozzles aren't that bad

The last time this happened to me - where I just could not work out wtf was causing similar problem where I couldn't get the nozzles back, I did a head flush and it fixed it. Pretty easy on the JV33. I put a take away container with paper towel in it in the recess area under the head. First...

Wow, that's a doozy. That you replaced the ink lines and dampers, I would say look there. That you replaced the cap top and station, I would say look there. But, that you can pull ink through manually effectively rules all that out. Except maybe the line I.D. as you say - if they are smaller for...

You're right, there's just not much changed - at least on the surface. In one way that's a good thing though, it doesn't take much adjusting to. Everything can be set up just like previous versions. The biggest surprise to me was the quality of the inbuilt profiles. And the profiling. Yet, they...

I have just bought the upgrade, but I'm coming from version 8 so I expect to see some improvements. It's on a new computer which I haven't switched over to yet, so I'm not using version 11 yet. I did have a good look at the trial. There's a few things in there that helped me decide to upgrade...

It's not a head issue, because it's happening across all the channels. It's plumbing related. Whenever someone says something like "I changed the cap top, now I don't get any ink..." type thing, you can bet it's because they changed something. You replaced your ink lines, dampers, cap top...

I'm still using my Gretag Macbeth i1 Pro and the old i1 Match software. It's a great combination as long as your printing software can do ink restrictions and a good linearization before using i1 Match to do the .icc. Takes me I'd say about 20 minutes to read 2033 patches.