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Unfortunately, even with UV inks, there's a little bit of solvent in it that "etches" the plastic. It's annoying but you probably won't ever get it to go away completely.

Is it possible that's a raster effect like a drop shadow or outer glow that somehow got corrupted? The image isn't super high res so I can't tell when I zoom in but it looks like a raster effect. If it is, you might try to delete it and redo the effect.

I don't know about your model specifically but in general UV filters tend to be 5 to 10 microns and a major manufacturer is Pall. Might get you pointed in the right direction.

I think that feature is called a dummy cut.

I agree. This machine uses sub tanks instead of dampers and the primer has a special reinforced sub tank specifically because it's so harsh.

That has more to do with the DX5 heads. The DX7s are generally universal. We've got them in stock here in Denver. You know us as Signage Specialist BTW.

The primer absolutely destroys heads in my experience. It doesn't necessarily clog, it tends to delaminate the head surface which causes the nozzles to fail.

I would do a damper swap at this point. Just switch the yellow damper with another color, run a cleaning and see what you get. If the yellow continues to not print in the new spot, you have some sort of ink flow issue above the head. If the yellow prints fine but the new color in the old yellow...

I believe Flexi had an issue between versions where they lost the license for a certain RIP process that changed how a lot of profiles work. That might be the cause. Also, just make sure color correction is actually turned on. When Flexi is installed fresh, it defaults to off.

As Smoke said, it's refreshing, not cleaning. When the pump is running, it's not sucking ink through the system like a clean does. It's just getting any excess ink out of the pump. Refresh only fires each nozzle once or twice to keep them from clogging and uses way less ink than cleanings.

The old joke is, if you charge them to recreate art so that it can be enlarged, they will magically find the print ready file they had all along!

I can get any one that Mimaki carries but we don't stock any here. I don't know a lot about the primers so if you have a part number, let me know and I can quote you.

Yup! Change that 2 to a 0 and you should be good to go!

Normally you just power off and boot the machine like normal and service mode should go away. If it's not, your parameters are set to be in service mode all the time which is something techs tend to do and forget to turn it off. In that case you need to change the System Parameter named...

We do run into issues with the Mutoh chips more often than any other brand for sure. I just haven't had a lot recently. Even the 3rd party ink suppliers have a hard time making the chips so I'm not sure what it is about them but it's definitely an issue. In your case, I wonder if the board that...

I agree that separate cutter is almost always a better choice if you have the room.

As far as printer/cutter combos go, Mimaki is the main brand competing with Roland. So I'd check them out. The CJV150 is a solid, proven machine.

Yeah that looks like alignment issues. Did you change heads recently?

Check your RIP's manual. A lot of RIPs have ink usage counters per job that will give you a good idea. In general the number people have used for Solvent is about 35 cents per square foot. Not sure how comparable latex is though.

That's weird. We're a Mutoh dealer and we haven't been having issues. Our biggest problem was when they switched to the MS31 and the order ValueJets were clogging up. What model are you running?