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not for free I've been told... (I was also told they weren't necessary)

balstestrat... any thoughts on this one? I have a few decals we print on a regular basis that are heavy coverage with small knockout white text. On my 310, the text was pretty crisp, but off the 700, I've got fill-in/fuzziness. Printing at 600, 6p. Stock is 3M 40C.

the issue I've had so far has been on my 15oz banner vinyl & my static cling materials. The static cling, it can't read very well so it keeps ejecting it. Once it's loaded, both it and the banner vinyl seem to be buckling up while running.

got ours in last week... still working through some teething issues (having issues w/ some of my usual stocks getting loaded in (and not binding up and causing headstrikes) and profiled) but seems like a good machine so far.

sort of... that's already an existing cost so applying it to equipment acquisition isn't a direct cost, he's already paying for it (unless, of course, he needs to rent more space to add this machine). Back to the OP, $3/print seems to have a calculation issue as that seems way high for an...

right but if everything is in good shape... that's a good price, better than buying one new and still having the same concerns. Its a slow machine with way too many nuisances for me to recommend one, but I'm stuck with one patiently waiting for the powers that be to replace it. FYI: 4x8 sheets...

I have at 1625... I wouldn't recommend it for various reasons mentioned above, but 10k for one is a steal (unless heads need to be replaced/etc.).

Illustrator is always my last to update.... InDesign & Photoshop I usually update immediately.

re-reading your first message... I'd retract my GF201 for the vinyl. You want it to be removeable in 3 years. 40C is probably your best option, though you definitely need to use laminate made for floor graphics (GF211, GF213, Drytac EmeryTex or FloorTex, OraGuard 250/255, Avery 3000 series...

hmmm the example I gave was done as a permanent decal for a warehouse. As far as I know, it's still there and I did it 3 or 4 years ago. We have some samples down on the floor within our building that get foot traffic that have been there at least 2 years (though as we wanted them to come up at...

I've used the GF201HTAP for floor graphics with either the GF211 or GF213 (forget which I used) or Drytac Polar Grip for longer term installations. There's also TexWalk which can be put down without overlam but I don't know the longevity.

stock is more important than the printer. Need vinyl that sticks to the plastic.

When I used ContraVision, I ran it with the generic HP window perf profile as well. The liner is heavy so you may need to run it forward a bit and keep tension on it so it doesn't buckle starting up.

was it printed? UV inks don't stick well to pre-mask. Solvent & Latex don't have anywhere near as much issue.

Media - sourcing/cleaning materials to not get issues like finger prints/dust/debris in your printing. Registration - moreso an issue w/ hybrids than true flatbeds, but also goes a bit into Media... can't always guarantee your media to be square.

ipf is more suited to art and poster prints. Print quality is good but longevity isn't what solvent/latex is.

I sub my mesh work out for sewing. You CAN use hem tape but it does leave exposed adhesive.

made in america but not sold here?

the OP needs something that can be updated w/ new records, so I get the glass cover thing. Depending on how it's done, updates could be done in cut lettering. Could frame it and cover it in acrylic/lexan some way that's moderately serviceable for removing to update.

I was going to suggest that too but they normally have a texture to them.