Search results

definitely way too much heat though it looks like you've got it zero'd in. Most of the "heavy" stuff I run, I have the temp around 190.

should be some other options for heavy duty laminate. The GF211 floor laminate is 6mil and while it says it's textured, it's very very light (I've used this stuff). GF also has the GF238 12mil Motormark "Armor" overlam, which might be more like what you need?

that flag is definitely a vectored version of the original flag.

All vendors should have models with adjustable poles... it's usually just the cheapest stands have the fixed poles. We order our stands from orbus and catapult (I like Catapult but I'm not the purchasing agent so we get more from Orbus). https://www.orbus.com/ https://www.catapultlaunch.com/

I think that's a typo above (the .16) and both are on the same 192.168.1.255 subnet. The 'hanging" during print... is the printer locking up or is it dropping off the network losing data and stopping the print? You've mentioned a PC here as well, is that also on the same network? If it's the...

Briteline would be a "cheap" option to get started... all of them have their quirks (heat, tackiness, stretch, etc.) though so you may have a little learning to do once you decide to move on to the premium lines.

depends a bit on how you're adding marks and how you're cutting. If you're using a Graphtec cutter, you can use Cutting Master to rotate however you like (putting the marks in through Illustrator). If you're using Onyx to front both the printer and the cutter, I think you can also rotate but I'm...

I had noticed a little banding on occasion recently but not enough that I felt the quality was off. Was holding off buying new heads since we're supposed to be replacing it in the next few months. Just did a few test prints to check the heads and everything looks good. Not sure how that force...

hmmm did not know about that force drop detection... I had 500-700 per color. Guess I need some new heads!

If you mean a removable like "fatheads" we use Avery 2611.

Can you clarify this a little bit? We're upgrading our 310 to a 700W or 800W soon, currently leaning toward the 700.

have that issue, even with 0 M in the build. very light colors tend to drift though on lots of equipment. Have that issue on my small format machines as well.

looks like he misquoted there Gino... the quote should have been to Texas' referral of grunts... I don't think he was trying to pat himself on the back. Though... I do think he's got a 3M bias. Saying all other products are inferior to 3M is a bit misguided. Avery and Arlon definitely have...

I used the Sihl w/ little problems... the briteline without the dual layer seems to work better in our latex. That heavy dual liner makes it buckle something awful. I've also used the contravision which wanted to buckle at the start, so as long as I held it to get going I was fine (contravision...

definitely might be worth replacing the USB cable

All of the 3XX and 5XX are 220V. Not sure on the 110/115. - edit, just looked it up... 110/115 are also 220V.

yeah... it'd be useful, but I do miss the auto-sheet cut that I had on my old canon. Was great for running blueprints. Obviously we've now narrowed down which model I have of Latex. :)

ahh good to know as I've only used the 300 series HPs, though the only reason I would like it would be counterproductive as it's what you explained to the OP already.

does the 570 even have a cutter blade?

if the latex adheres to the lam, it's doable... but I'm skeptical that you'll get it to print well at all to the lam.