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Install those cutters - you'll love it. Just go to File/Install/cutters - it'll have your Gerber plotters listed. Put a check box next to the ones you want to install. Then go to Cut/plotting defaults - select your driver and set it up.

Yet another pointless interjection from you sjm. Please either stick to the point or stop interfering. Preferably the latter.

Were discussing the first step - setting individual ink restrictions. Prior to linearizing (calibrating) and prior to setting total ink limits. The purpose of this is to lop off any unnecessary ink usage beforehand and thereby achieve a better linearization curve. And consequently a better...

I usually start at the lightest patch and work up the ramp. It seems a bit more intuitive when you compare the reading and see just where it stops making any difference to the deltaE. Also don't discount using you're eyes. As eye4clr said, you can't get a true reading for Yellow so once you've...

Hi Jason, if you're lucky, eye4clr or Bly might wander past and be able to tell you exactly what to do. I haven't used Versaworks profiling so I'm not much good to you. But we had a good discussion on another forum where eye4clr in particular was most helpful at detailing the steps involved...

We can't get SS21 inks in Australia for some stupid reason. So Our JV33/CJV's come with Eco-HS1 inks (or ES3). I'm using the Eco-HS1 and find it pretty good for colour gamut and scratch resistance, but it is a bit slow drying so I have to print everything at 720 8 pass and use a fan to help...

Greetings to you in Gothenburg Sweden from South Australia! I have the same machine. Is this the first time trying to print/cut? If so you may need to go through the options to calibrate the print to cut and light pointer offset etc. If you already have that set, then maybe it didn't read...

Oracal has a product specially for this type of application - 638M wall art. The "M" is for Matte which is what you want. I've used it on matte latex it works really well. Cuts and weeds just like normal vinyl. Sanding will help to level out any high spots beforehand. And they can remove...

Have a look here http://dgsmimaki.com.au/pages/tutorials/tutorials.html They are really helpful tutorials on setting up and using Rasterlink. The colouredit one should help you - it shows how you can make density adjustments and spot color replacements etc. Also the condition management one...

Do you have the pdf operation manual? For Y Overcurrent error it say to turn it off and wait a while...not much help I know! I'd try cleaning and re-oiling the bar. I sent 5 separate print/lam/cut jobs around 4' x 2' and they all went okay. These went from Signlab to Corel, created contour...

Well I've just used Rasterlink to print & cut a batch of laminated decals and found it was pretty accurate at contour cutting with the CJV. The worst group was out by about 1mm and I changed the pressure on the fly with that one so I think that threw it out. (I've seen that happen each time I...

You shouldn't have to print 2 passes 16 pass 1440, that's ridiculous. Are the nozzles firing 100%? I've been printing out of Rasterlink today and some of the profiles were laying down too much ink for me. I've also just printed full Pantone solid to process CMYK swatches using different...

Hi Erik, I'm just starting to use Rasterlink 4 with my CJV, so I've had to trawl through their badly written manuals to find out how things are supposed to work. This is what they say about register marks: "Prints register marks for cutting around the images. The register marks are used...

Hi Sharon, I guess your talking about the CJV. I've had the same problems - sometimes it lines up perfectly and other times it's all over the place. Trouble is I use Signlab so was thinking it may have been that, and was going to switch to Rasterlink/Fine Cut for print/cut to see if it works...

Thanks, actually I realised I have Pantone palettes supplied within Signlab. Solid to process is CMYK as is the Process coated pal. Solid Coated pal is in LAB mode. I can create a palette swatch for each one and print them. Still no RGB though, but some of the supplied vinyl palettes are RGB...

Oh yeah, just rasterize the whole page and save as a tiff. I suppose I could do that in my sign program too - convert to bitmap. Photoshop would handle it better though and like Eye4clr says you could assign different profiles if you wanted to test them. I thought Insignia may have had a way...

And looking at that pdf manual, it's similar to Signlab's printmode creation too. So as long as you start with an appropriate printmode, you should end up with an accurate icc along with good ink restrictions, linearization etc. So, not sure where it's going wrong. Perhaps some pics of the...

I am wondering how you printed the Pantone vector swatch as RGB? Did you convert each patch individually to RGB? Just asking coz that's how I would have to do it in my sign proggy and if I did it would alter each color significantly. And if you didn't, then maybe the files were actually the...

I would recommend you set it up the same as you would if you were using Signlab's rip. Like I explained in the step by step over on Cadlinks site: http://www.cadlink.com/support_train/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1670 Except, for the printer profile, where it says "use Printmode's ICC" you would...