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the heating is one issue that i was wondering about. there is no way you can heat a board at s single point with out aggressive warping. when i heard "heated table", i figured that might work. but i can only assume you would need to preheat the sheet for a long period until you have some...

i was watching some videos... all of them were at 16 pass (assuming). how does the printer perform at 360x720 or 720x720 four pass? is it slow to allow the heat to build, can you just post heat/cure?

i'll bet my house it's sepiax, or a licensed sepiax "knock off". just like eco-solvent. there will be many flavors to it but the chances of it being something entirely different are nil. how much did the dts cost?

the head prefers vacuum to positive pressure. if you can set up a damper with a tube going to a cup of cleaning solution and pull it through from the waste line. also pushing fluid at the carriage runs a great risk of the the tube or damper popping off and spitting fluid all over your heads...

"...way back in the day, the print head would go side to side, left, right, left, right.... it was fantastic! you could sit down and rest, or take a nap, those were the good old days. now the damn print flies out all over the floor making a mess of the place. you don't even have a chance to...

they are all technically solvents. WATER is a solvent. sepiax uses a lactate that is a low VOC solvent. that is why there is no smell.

those some very nice looking printers. the look pricey. i was impressed by the website too. chinese websites tend to be a mess.

it's super terrible. it looks "old south" dixon, as in mason-dixon line, with a design that shares design traits with the confederate flag. it reads "white only" to me.

any time you get a solvent stew like that you are usually dealing with a thinner or a remover/stripper. i'd assume it's some kind of ink thinner (most likely oil based ink).

you can see they are really simple test patterns. if these patterns are perfectly vertical over and over again. ...then your strip and sensor are operating perfectly. the sensor is universal. it can only send a position to the main board. so whatever it does, will occur in all channels...

back in the day (dx2 days) all of the dots were the same same size. it was just called a dot. then variable dots came into the picture. ...your head could print a speck of black up to a big dot of black (...the term used in grand format heads is "grayscale head"). still printers are faster...

that's just too much boob-crack.

this is very interesting. i too have been having issues with overspray. one thing though. i put in a new head, same thing. figured i'd blame the ink, so i printed some tests by simply printing cleaning solution on to clear polyester, same thing. so it may be clogs, or it may be some kind of...

when you get it take lots of pics. if that dual works well, i just may upgrade with with a witcolor dual 2.2. i was plunking around studying wit color. they just started making dx5 machines in high volume. on some versions of their websites, they don't even show the 9000. they are waaaay...

if you use silkabond with the vhb is a game changer. also for wood frames to aluminum, i use .5 x .5 x 2 wood blocks and hot glue them in the corners all over as "braces" this holds the aluminum to the frame and center supports while the silkabond cures up. also the hot glue can do a nice pin...

some of those guys are doing to much standing around. they should be paddling.

silkabond silicone adhesive is my new favorite aluminum adhesive. and all i do is glue down aluminum.

i've had my work ripped off, remanufactured a couple of times. once it was a $45,000 order that just vanished only to see the same piece (sans my studio made it). i never felt raped. or violated. i just figure it's part life. this is a great tedtalk about copyright protection...

ordered.....the wit color? more info, model, width, price!

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