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http://www.luminous-landscape.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=3cf25edde632f5114c14051b1a8213f5&board=6.0

most recently, http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91309 there have been others over the last several weeks as well. http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92601 http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92114 http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88789

plus the price is looking like they are attempting to do a "market will bear" number. a machine that is 10" longer costing $10k more? if the 53" can be built for $565 per inch. then the 63" should be $35,595. take into account that the real money is the main board, heads, pumps, etc. that...

taskforce 1100?

since mimaki marketing is probably peeping in on the message boards, the board should offer up a "what my business would pay for what you are offering" i think mimaki build, latex, low heat, $24k.

just got the grimco 2012 catalog. jv400 LX 53" $29,995 jv400 LX 63" $39,995

your welcome. i've heard you can order "just the springs" probably almost free. i'd get some in house but for now you should be fine for several months to a year.

first just rotate the cap tops to prove or disprove it the cap top is to blame. swap them. also, paint the top of the MY cap with black ink. the seat the carriage. look at the bottom of the carriage to make sure the cap is lining up. also the springs in the capping station may be getting...

the encoder strip may be listing at that point on the printer? i assume it's dead straight. did you dial in the encoder sensor position? you are stuck. i feel sorry for what you are going through. blaming a brand new encoder is an option. how much does an encoder sensor cost for that...

the soak can be forever, usually 1.5 days should just about clear anything that will be cleared. you might look into making your own cleaning solution. especially when working on a down machine, it's nice to go through the stuff like water. (search homebrew cleaning solution, or butyl carbitol)

i stick a large nail in the end of the line. was an "emergency measure one day and and ended up preferring it to pinching the lines.

no. i was just curious which province. i'm somewhat fascinated with china, east truly meeting west over this last decade. there are quite a few discussions concerning chinese equipment, business culture, etc. please do add to the discussion of we ever seem misguided.

abbreviations for english phrases: OMG = "Oh My God" WTF = What The F_ _ k"

put the fitting tip in the bottom of the syringe. gently pull until you see all the air has left the lines. when you get to that point you will see the ink pulling into the damper but down into the syringe, not filling the damper very well. now turn the damper upside down while pulling the...

awesome josh! isn't the virtu the only flatbed that you can actually walk around inside of? you can stash a lot of bodies in that thing!

i think the reason for mimaki not using "pop in heads" is they were wanting to be the low heat alternative. an hp used a thermal head, then ink cures with heat. with the thermal head, the ink had to have it's cure temperature raised further above it's boiling temperature. a piezo spits ink so...

my syringe has a small section of pump tube on the end, then a fitting that i've sanded down to the perfext size to fit into the end of a damper. when reverse flusing a line, i like to take off the damper. you'll want to get a good amount of pressure on the line and the membrane of the damper...

in that case your printer is dead. i'd suggest parting it out on ebay. you do have a touchy issue. there should be a media measure bypass, you'd think that would be a must for fixing these things.

even with a bad encoder (faulty) that should in most cases just result in it adding steps going back to the right because it missed a few going left. i'm not familiar with your printer but in general the media sensor is the on/off and the encoder counts. if it's failing at the same spot then...

welcome! what part of china?