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those test patterns don't point to a striping issue. they do look bad. the cyan overspraying may mean the head is going bad. when it starts banding like this. do an immediate test print. in order for this type of pattern to happen, you'd need to loose a lot of nozzles on the top or bottom...

oh. well there are the different levels of vacuum in the firmware. also rips seem to have options. possibly your rip is overriding the firmware? there are lots of heat setups that reduce wrinkles but i'm not that familiar because i don't print on vinyl. pm me your email address for the...

you mean "ink fill"? don't do an ink fill unless you want to throw away a ton of ink.. pull a vacuum with a syringe at the damper. then pull the ink from the waste line into the head. (later run the waste lines outside the hull and down into four separate holes drilled into the back of the...

the technical side of it is that sepiax is a resin ink. but since the beginning the dx4 and dx5 were horrible candidates for the low viscosity that those heads require. it was a technical breakthrough choked by the existence of pre-installed hardware. epson has done everything they can do to...

as far as mixing, it would be much easier to at least get a spot that is almost right. then add 1 part black, or 1 part yellow to the ..."20 parts whatever". that way your ratio is far more repeatable and the added parts are less sensitive causing less accuracy issues.

top "piece of crap printers" seem to be astarjet, micolor, and wit-color. thought experiment china (all of asia as well), india, and russia are covered in graphics. we think we like signs here in the USA. nope. no one plasters every square foot of space like the asian culture. but, most of...

man did that suck... there were some leaks on my ancient roof that never got taken care of this week. so i just spent the last hour (midnight to one) with a makita mini-leaf blower, roof tar, and a work light painting over some cracks. now it can start raining. it's crazy windy but no rain...

one other dibond/tracksaw bonus. braking dibond. you can set the blade depth to shave off the aluminum skin on one side. then brake your substrate's edges at 90's. it's so simple my girlfriend can do it. and she has an anxiety attack around table saws.

what side of the supply is the air coming in on. that the first question when tracking air. if it's building at the head end, raise your ink supply. if it's coming down the lines, you have an air leak. you could even put a small quantity in a dark beaker and seal the top. if when breaking...

if there is negative pressure in the lines during the printer being parked. try to raise the ink supply an inch or so. the height of the ink supply is ink direct relation to the internal pressure of the lines. to low and the ink will drift toward the tanks. you'll know when the ink supply is...

i take everything with grain of salt. i've learned a lot more from reading flaar reports about a machine than OEM pdfs. most of them are boring repetitive formulaic... but we are here in the US. americans can be xenophobic and at times believe that we are the only country on the planet...

@jmitchell954, you may want to just modify your ink slightly with some retarder. a dab of retarder. you don't have to put it in your machine just yet. get a mini gun, put some ink in several containers. use powerful love volume retarders that will not affect the density of the ink (carbitol...

just about all chinese no name ink is that price. there are some high end chinese 3rd party ink companies (many of them make ink for mimaki, etc). for a local source, keep in mind that you are only discussing viscosity compatible to that head. so any dx5 ink (jv33, mutoh, gs6000) will also...

meanwhile i'll be running latex in my encad flatbed. head price $8. also, here's a new article...

bring 10 x 12 substrates with you! don't let any booth dictate what that machine can do. for all you know the coro or whatever they are printing on has four coats of adhesion promoter sprayed on it. get there early and head straight to the CET booth. that was the busiest flatbed booth at...

as far as clamping that thing stays put. the saw is like scissors. that is why it's good for cutting laminated stock. the saw pinches all the layers together tightly at the cut point. the blade pulls backwards up into the saw creating force against the track. i cut 3/8" acrylic for an hour...

flaar is what it is. it's a guy and a band of assistants that are obsessed with printers and the printing industry. they hit all the trade shows, visit factories, interview installed equipment users. some of their reports are over a thousand dollars! but, for what it is, they are in china...

??? you mean is constant discussing of the sepiax ink? these articles are updates on aftermarket latex ink and canon outdoor.

fmg that is a ridiculous track! i am jealous. the table the track... that's cool.

also, to add, the 3/8" that i'm cutting is face mounted graphics. so i'm cutting through acrylic, adhesive and .030 petg. so i need no heat at all or i can get out gassing which causes delamination. i can cut some dibond over here if you want with the "sacred" blade as a test. i usually...