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We started selling vinyl by the foot and yard for crafters a few years back and I can say there are definitely a good amount of dude crafters out there.
We've done contracts for the Air Force for printers before and they might ask for a Roland but we spec a Mimaki that has similar features and they never bat an eye.
Believe it or not, greasing the rail is not considered a regular maintenance item. It's not mentioned in any manual including the install, maintenance, and service manuals. It's something that should only be done if absolutely needed. My contact at Mimaki told me once that in the rare case that...
If nozzles are dropping out overnight it usually means the cap tops are failing. If the cap tops are more than a year old I would replace them. If the dampers are more the 1 to 2 years old I would replace them as well.
I agree with above. The stair step pattern usually indicates a bad encoder. I would lean more towards bad trailing or head cables as well though. The digital looking pattern you are getting usually indicates more of an electrical issue The encoder data is sent back to the main board via the...
I haven't had any experience with the PerformanceJets yet but in general, ink build up on PCB boards is a bad thing. I do see UV machine create more "ink dust" than others but that's why the boards should be covered/isolated from the environment. Mimaki UV machines have filters on their cooling...
That and there is a cable between the main board and slider board that Mimaki eventually beefed up due to magnetic fields messing with the communication. Might be related.
Orajet 3174 is a PVC free vinyl with water based adhesive. Not the most durable stuff in the world but it doesn't sound like you need it to last for too long.
The alignment you're doing simply sets the 0 point for the user alignment. So once you have the alignment in service mode done, when you go to do the user ones, it won't be out of range and should be very close to 0. I believe the DT stand for Dot Size. The head has different dot sizes so it...
Check out this page: Mimaki USB Driver and update the USB driver if there's a newer version available. I would also see if there are any updates to Rasterlink. That's where I would start anyway. It could be the main board/USB port but I like to start with the easy cheap stuff first. I do...
Make sure they are sending the original file. A lot of phones/tablets will automatically downsample images being sent over text or email. Usually there is an override to send the original file though.
You can try flushing the head with a syringe and cleaning solutions but that can cause damage to the internal membrane. You can also take the manifold off and flush just that which can withstand much more pressure. The two screws on the bottom of the head hold the manifold on. Just be sure when...
You also have some cross contamination in the cyan which can be a sign of a bad cap top. You could try that as well. Just in my experience, when the nozzle check looks like that, it's almost never 100% recoverable but you might get it closer to something you can use.
You can try hooking a syringe up to those channels and flushing it with flushing solution but it could cause internal damage that will cook the head for good. It's usually a last ditch effort before getting a new head. If you can't get it to recover with flushing, you'll need a new head.
You should be able to just put it back into remote and it should start where it left off. I've usually seen this happen when there needs to be a firmware update.
The black is causing the problem for sure. You can try doing head soaks and try to manually flush that channel but that looks too far gone to recover unfortunately.
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