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:wink: Funny thing is that he'll never see this post. Gee.. I posted a link to a bit that have used in the past (or one very similar) with a set router speed and what I used as a bit lubricant, and he still says I have my own agenda and never answered his question? And have sanded aluminum of...

Works for me. I'm rude and arrogant for telling you how I've successfully hand router aluminum for years? Hmm.. I guess the only people that will benefit are the ones that don't put me on an ignore list. Good luck with the project and don't lose any fingers.

With your screen name, I had thought you knew about how to machine aluminum. From your other posts, it's fairly obvious you don't. You'll have to figure out what works for you instead of not taking advice from guys that have been working it for years. Try a large disc sander with 60 grit on it...

Just use a bigger bit with more meat on the blade if you're routing. The first thing I see is that your bit is riding too deep or something - I can see a step where the bit starts into the metal. Probably one reason why it loaded up and snapped. I've never had an issue with a single spiral bit...

I'd like to see you jigsaw a 1/16" accurately. Seriously, it's not that thick that you can't do it with a router and the right bit. Or, better yet, a simple fine cut jigsaw blade. With a handheld router, keep the cut area wet with some WD40 and take your time - cut from the reverse side (smooth...

It may be the municipality requires it, Gino, but PA code allows for unmarked cars to patrol and make stops.

Every system I've seen like that uses the 3M clear VHB tape.

Shout out to Casey at Signburst for the mega horsepower machine I recently purchased. We've been chasing very minor set up problems, but Casey has never not had a moment to troubleshoot over the phone. Often, we'll sit and laugh while he works remotely, trying to disentangle some of my older...

+1 for frosted. And +1 for Gino's suggestion. And really, you would only need it 3/4 of the way up to block an passer-by view. And, it'll leave light for the room. Anything dark, including window tint, may shatter the window as stated before. You really have to know what you're doing with dark...

I'd rather have the Goliath as well. Those Promasters are one of the ugliest trucks out there, IMHO.

Sounds like too many layers for a pinstripe. I use the RealGold with the black or red border, and occasionally just the gold alone depending on the job. With your situation, I'd probably just run the regular black/gold with a separate white pinstripe. Why clear over that? Now, if everything were...

That's interesting to hear, Bob. I've used Clear Shield on odd jobs, but not as a go-to over my regular vinyl lam. I'd like to try to use more of it and that may give me the incentive to try it on some other items in the shop. Do you use it on vehicle graphics and if so, how does it seem to...

What's "polished enough"? A propane torch isn't hot enough - step it up to a MAPP or oxy/acetylene torch. Just keep the flame moving fast or you'll melt the piece.

Shrunk into a giant pucker in the middle. Look at the glue residue on the edge! Wonder if it had been done wet...

No, not really... http://www.litcoat.com/make-electroluminescent-paint

They say $10K for a shop, now I don't know how many employees that would cover, though. With a little more digging I did uncover a company that sells the components to make sprayable EL. And it isn't all that expensive, just a little tricky to set up the layers correctly.

Interesting stuff - I can see lots of sign related applications if the half-life can be lengthened: http://lumilor.com/

That's actually not too bad. A little heavy, but that can be modified. Good find, there - thanks!

Close, but not it. It's the E that's setting it apart. I think it's probably a Leo's Gold font, but they won't list all they have as offerings to see..