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Damn, I thought Endura Poster 225 10 mil was working fine (didn't buckle) but today on a poster with purple color 2/3s of the left side printed all speckly like that ink was soaking in different than the right side. Coating obviously not consistent as it print beautifully on the right side. So...

When you start losing detail with higher ink settings that is a clear indication that your OP need bumped up a little. There is a nice onboard test that will show you what effect different levels of OP will give you. Back to your laminator are you sure you don't have a flat spot on your...

Wait a minute. Where did you get this idea. "That's one of the big draws to latex is the ability to oversaturate prints". That is asking for trouble. There is a very fine line as to where you can go with over saturation with Latex. It is not at all like aqueous or solvent in that regard. Once...

Are you serious? I think most of them must have been created with the on-board spectro and HP worthless profile creating on-board software. If you were to create real profiles with top quality profiling software you would know the difference.

On our Seal 6100 we have a -2mm setting which is where I run when over-lamining paper or film, at 60 lbs. pressure.

Are you sure it isn't possibility a laminator issue. Not enough pressure? Running too fast? I ask because others and myself have not seen this. I even tested this with when it was first brought up.

I have watched videos of applying vinyl with a flatbed laminator and it is the same technique we already use with roll to roll laminators, but we have all kinds of take off and take on options including long continuous rolls to substrates. Not to mention roll to roll laminating first if need be...

It doesn't appear to be able to web vinyl or over-laminate or have take up reals for release liner so I am trying to to think of what special application you would use this for other that to laminate substrates together.

I ran Blox-Lite on the L25500 so you should have any trouble. You have to use setting to minimize buckling. Now if I could just run it on the L360 where it is much more of a challenge.

That is one of the reasons I always liked the Fiery RIPs. Whether EX or XF the RIP is a true server and you can run clients on a any Mac or Windows workstation with all the heavy work and network to printers being done on the RIP server. I had network through-put problems when trying to run...

That could point to a software error on the RIP or a communications hardware error either before the printer or in communication stream of the printer. I would reseat all cables for a start, both internal and external.

So are you saying that when you print the internal prints you don't get the "replace Y+K print head" error?

But it uses different driver and configuration files for each printer. Something could be corrupted. I can't remember anymore what test files are in the printer but you could try printing those and see if they print correctly.

I think I would start looking at the RIP. Reinstall it on a Laptop of other box and at least eliminate it as the problem.

Looks like your throwing way too much ink at it. What are your ink limits, pass, drying and curing temps?

Anybody else have this happen? Why would it do this?

44% humidity in the shop today. Summer time around 60% and doesn't seem to make a difference.

How are you guys dealing with eliminating getting shocked when laminating/mounting vinyl to max metal when run through the laminator?

The L360 is not the same as the L25500 when it comes to paper. Paper that ran fine in the L25500 now has problems in the L360 even with the vacuum maxed out. Not sure if it is printing with less humidity in the winter 30 to 40% or if it is that all the heating is much closer to the print zone...