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No, these are brand new from the manufacturer, so no chance of the club having cleaned or waxed them. The old ones, however, do have a heavy coating of cigarette smoke, so those are always fun to clean and gild. Tammie might be on to something, just as Bill stated. I'm not quite sure how I'd...

That's what I had thought, Si. I did talk with the people who made them and they insisted it was simply the catalyzed lacquer. They didn't seem to have a clue what the issue might be... they are a commercial wood repair/refinish outfit and make stuff to be basically mar-resistant.

:-) well.... I've been doing these type signs this way for near 15 years and rarely had a problem. I'll try letting the size sit enough to start to set then pull the mask and gild. We'll see what happens!

Yes, it's a professional finish. There doesn't seem to be any overspray at all - I have five in the shop at the moment and they appear exactly the same (except for the wood, of course). I prefer to gild with the frisket in place since I usually do these on location year to year and I can't spend...

Ok gang, I'm faced with a weird issue. I do quite a bit of gilding for a couple local golf clubs for their yearly awards boards. One club has these wood plaques pre-made locally, and for some odd reason I cannot get the size to stick. The wood has been sprayed with Sherwin-Williams catalyzed...

Ahh... never thought about looking at the entire block to see the pattern. Good call roper!

:-) It's seems to be based on a very clever algorithm that times how long it takes you to scan and find your target number and then click the 'next' button.

Yep, a trip out to confirm the dimensions would definitely be in order. It isn't that large - take some banner paper out and tape it over the opening and make a rubbing of the inside of the trim.

http://www.regiftable.com/regiftingrobinpopup.html No idea how it works. Tried it 10 times and it was right all 10.... Ohh.... just figured it out... but won't tell just yet..

As the guy celebrates getting to the top and the pyrotechnics burn through the cables.... Don't let Todd from Gold Rush see that.....

Yeah, check your downforce. You shouldn't have that much adhesive return in that short amount of time. Get rid of your weeding box, too. You'll have more vinyl to actually work on and reduce the time it takes to cut... since it won't have to go back and actually cut the bounding box.

Difficult to weed how? Sticking to the backer? Incomplete cuts? Cut edges sticking together (i.e. you can't pick the center of a lower case 'e' without the entire letter coming up)?

Colorcore? It's polyethylene based, I use quite a bit for exterior address plaques for a client. PM me for your need - I carry brown/white/brown.. other color combos need to be special ordered.

Alsa's new stuff? Expensive, but interesting to see what it can do.

How big? Inside or out? I've always found driving 10 penny nails through 'em holds pretty well..

Are you making this? Plenty of off the shelf floor stands with weighted bases already.. why try to make something?

I've never had HDU warp at any thickness greater than 1/2". I'd put two length of angle aluminum on the wall with one leg hidden by the sign and slip the sign in between. A couple of screws through the top and bottom angle into the foam about 3/4" and call it done.

I know who you're talking about Gino. With the delivery there is a slip with the item and costs already outlined on it... I make that my invoice and simply compare that to what gets emailed. I always want the paper for end of year stuff - I don't care how it gets here.

Just names? As in individual letters and not a full wrap? Cut the name and apply it... no big deal.

Well, if you read the english translation as it ran, essentially he printed on a transparent decal - it looked like Avery stock that you can purchase at Staples. Then he adhered it to the inside of the car body and painted over top of it (white or silver, depending on the car model)...