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signcomp kits would be the easiest way but it aint easy and it aint cheap cheaper to order from wholesale being in Tracy, try calsignwholesale - great people great product - they are in Modesto

if your shop isn't UL approved you shouldn't be doing this AT ALL it will be doing a disservice to your clientele.

Also, you would be laminating the white vinyl to the clear print, not vice versa as you state.

most RIP's have a 'double-strike' feature

too many variables to answer

expensive is relative.

99% of the time it's more cost effective to get new

photo would help, but it does sound like bad data to head (cables not seated, dirty, etc)

hopefully no damage to the head, just clean it well and do some test prints to confirm. You will most likely have to reprint the whole panel though.

try a full-size rgb jpg @150-200 dpi. Thats how I get my best color

.tiff would be much larger in terms of file size than pdf, especially if the pdf is exported as vector. as far as RGB, it has a wider gamut than CMYK, as do most printers.

NATS (Regular) modified perhaps

ah. I thought goudy first but didn't look at old-style for the W

ok. but it was probably pirated. sounds like you don't care, though.

a version of helvetica

looks like a garamond to me

The first 3 sets of numbers have to be the same. if your computer isn't on a network, and only connected to the printer, change your ethernet IP on the computer. if its on a network, it needs to stay at 169.254.158.xxx and you should be able to change the printer IP to match (with the xxx...

most likely you would be getting an extremely uncontrollable wide array of humidity throughout the day, which I assume would be worse than a controlled lack thereof.

welcome from cali, USA :thumb:

one could posit the that weight is directly proportional to the thread count etc