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RolandDGA.com is Roland's web store. They sell all these types of accessories direct.

Solvent inks generally hold pretty well. I would give the cartridges a shake once in a while to keep them from separating but you can get away with using expired inks for a while. The only problem is if you do run into head issues etc., the ink will always be a question. I would just run with 4...

Mimaki performs the perf cut just like this; with only one blade/holder. It does cut up the cut strip but if you're desperate I'm sure it's fine for a little while. Cut strips are also cheap and easy to replace at the end of the day so go for it.

Looks like a damper or other air leak issue. Do you see any air in the ink lines above the dampers?

That's a signal issue. Basically the signal that drives the head is getting corrupted somehow. Usually it's going to be a bad cable. Make sure to unplug the printer, push the power button a couple times, and then wait 15 minutes. Then unplug all the cables from the CR board (the one that is...

Try a 56* blade. It's made for thicker materials. You will be able to cut with less force which should help your issue.

Print a cross-hair with crop marks and then print and cut it. Now go into the menu and find Mark Detect. Enter into that menu and then hit enter a few times until you see X Offset and Y Offset. You can adjust those settings to make the cut more accurate. Just remember that Mimaki does things...

It's mostly about the maintenance. If you keep up with it religiously, you can get it to work well. The problem is that if you don't use it a lot, the ink literally just gets pumped into the waste bottle over time. This is just from my experience. I have installed many of these printers over the...

Looks like it could be an encoder issue.

If you want something comparable to the XR I'd look at the Mimaki CJV300. It has 2 DX7 heads just like the XR and many color configurations. Although I would advise you to stay away from metallic ink. You will rarely use it and it just clogs up over time. Same with the white. Every person who...

Gino @ + Gino

Haha wasn't sure. Guess he likes that beach weather.

I'm sure you could have helped him out with the wax with some Arlon DPF-8000!

I don't know if he goes that far north but Jim Hancock might be able to help. He's in southern Florida. 561 441-6658

Start by replacing the cap top. If you sucked only air, it means the cap top is not sealing but also that the pump isn't clogged either. When you pull with the syringe, you should feel pull back almost immediately and then ink flowing soon after. Also make sure that the air release tube is still...

Check your SSD and make sure it has plenty of free space. If it's full, it will slow things down a lot.

If you print a lot of banner or other fibrous media, those little fibers can get stuck to the ink on the head. Over time ink drips down and solidifies little by little until it starts to touch the media while printing. It's always a good idea to take a look at the bottom of the head once a month...

Could be media buckling. Make sure the vacuum is up all the way. Check to see if the media is buckling during printing. If it is, turn the heat settings down. Then just check the bottom of the head to make sure there are no inkcicles forming and dragging along the media.

Believe me we would love to! Running low on snow again this year.

The only thing DPI does to affect speed is it determines the available pass settings. Take the second number and divide by 180. That's the lowest pass count you can print at that resolution. So in your example, they would print the same speed. That's all handled by the RIP though. As stated...