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Check through your printer settings for a setting called, "Margin". That's where you can adjust the amount of space it leaves on the sides. That being said, the machine is't really made to print edge to edge. You can do it but it's not really an official feature so you have to trick it.

You should be able to just install the head and ignore the head rank then. It just won't reset the shot count so when you go to sell the machine, it will show the head as being really old.

What machine are you working on? Most machines will allow you to install the head without the head rank. It will just use the old one.

As long as the wiper isn't jammed and can move freely, either the sensor that detects the sensor origin is dirty or damaged.

Any modern digital printer that is properly calibrated will hit most of the colors you want but I have heard the Epson SureColors have the edge. Investing in the color correction process instead of relying on boxed profiles is what will give you the ability to hit pantones reliably. As far as...

Check all the fuses on the IO board. It's where the head signal gets amplified so if the fuse protecting that circuit is blown, the head won't get a signal. The IO board handles a lot of things but it's totally possible for one circuit to be blown and others not on the same board which is why...

I do not miss this part about the north east!

Exactly. If you go in and change the rendering intents to the same method, you can keep your vector objects which is how I prefer to do it but a lot of guys rasterize everything.

If the logo is a bitmap and the rectangle with white lettering is vector, your RIP might be setup to render them differently. It's pretty common that RIPs set the rendering intents to two different methods for vector and bitmap.

Check out Ebay and Craigslist. People are selling parts machines all the time. Might be a few on here actually. Good luck!

I can have one drop shipped from Mutoh to you but it won't ship until tomorrow. You can choose overnight for the quickest shipping option. Just make sure you order before tomorrow morning or it will add an extra day. Here's the link

Are you using white ink by chance?

Unfortunately the only manual I have simply says to take the old one out and put the new one in. If you take the bag out and look in there, it should be pretty straight forward.

I've never seen that error but I assume you're using a bulk system? In that case it would be the rubber seal in the 2 liter bulk case. See below. Feel free to contact us. We can have them drop shipped from Mimaki.

Run the encoder setup and then encoder calibration in service mode. Both are automatic adjustments. Then try the limit position again.

Yeah unfortunately official dealers and Mimaki techs aren't allowed to give out certain files including me. Search for "Mimaki FW Update tool 3" and I wouldn't be surprised if you find it online. Same with the firmware itself. Also, can't hurt to just contact Mimaki and ask. Sorry I can't be of...

Usually cross contamination is caused by a bad / partially clogged cap top or a weak damper. If the cap top and dampers are older than 1 year, I would just replace them. Also, we've tried many different aftermarket cap tops and they just don't seem to work well. If you are using after market...

Did you try to do it through Rasterlink or the Mimaki Firmware Update Tool? Also, which version are you on currently?

I couldn't find it for some reason but I'll send it over once I figure out where I got it in the first place!

I had a customer with a standard JFX200 who was printing on a similar substrate. He also had issues with the heads clogging up. Unfortunately the only remedy was to just stop doing that job. Mimaki has a PDF describing the jig requirements and they are very specific about not having any gaps...