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well these machine can't pull ink from all the lines save one. first do the damper swap, it will immediately tell you what it can be and what it simply can't. do that and report back the results. also, if you have a photo of the ink dropping out, that would be helpful. did you possibly...

world map piece in seattle for a children's cancer clinic. it was finished one day late, due to change orders, for it go on the "free shipping to the project truck" so i had to overnight it for $1800. only to have it installed by "professional" installers incorrectly. the piece is...

high end commercial interior signage is still booming (medical, oil, manufacturing, software) competitive upstarts and expansions, new offices. and the companies usually budget $200-$500 per square, or more. right now i'm aiming my work both commercial and fine art toward asian markets over...

swap a printing color damper/ink line to the M position on your head adapter and put the M damper/ink line where you pulled the proxy damper. it will tell you if the M is truly clogged, or you have some kind of restriction on the M. also, pull some ink on the M damper, observe if the PET...

no. look at the moving parts, if it's got an IR sensor, there will be a wire feeding toward that hardware to send the signal to the firmware. very possibly a sensor on maybe the first pinch roller but i doubt it.

IR switch work around i'm sure you mutoh is different, but i did this work around for my 160sp. i can't stand a printer that does too much thinking. i print on aluminum 90% of the time and it's dangerous for the printer to have a mind of it's own. basically the signal to measure is sent to...

check the magnetic sensor switch at the cover and also the switch way off to the left at the cleaning station. they may have come loose therfore not letting the plunging thing click it closed. if the trigger fell off the cover and you can find it, just tape something into the sensor and the...

10 mil is basically thick pc film. if you find out, pm me. i'm about to do some stuff that i'd rather print on thin rigid plastic... i figured i'd use .020 polycarb with a custom coating.

did your cartridge date expire? just reset the clock to 2001. takes about 10 minutes.

when i drop off a file at a printer in my area (to do the occasional plotter job. i don't do that), i give him a cd with ai. dxf. and plt. (aka hpgl). so no matter what the issue, there's the basic formats that will work with most cnc based equipment. in fact i had one nasty file i tried to...

as for the future of all american small business people. if what that business does, can be commoditized, be developing a replacement business model. these are the good old days.

... why doesn't he request the export to be .dxf? the dxf, when importing will show exactly what his laser is seeing to convert, rather than a format twice removed. when i'm having trouble with a cnc file, i re-import the dxf back into corel, and sure enough what the cnc software is being...

there's a lot of tricks out there, but none i know of to just tell the firmware to disregard. dates can be set 2001 for free, permanent chips can be put in place, but a bad sensor... that is probably impossible to get around.

what kind of inks are you planning on using. there are many solutions, some that are quite cheap that will get you printing, other more sophisticated.

is it one color only? i think the encoder strip would have to throw off all the colors, it tells the head carriage the "y" coordinate only. if it's one color only i'd first look a the data ribbon inlet to the print head to see if there is ink, and or the data cable is damaged, or not properly...

from what i've been told by printer techs, the dx2's don't really really need head ranks. i once had a long discussion with a tech (he rebuilt epsons for living), he said he mixed and matched head ranks on dx2 and couldn't tell a difference in print quality with a loop. so, for what it's...

if they are much like roland dx2, you of course have to take out the little screw. but after that the back portion rocks up and forward, if i remember correctly (as if a hing is on the front of the head). they can be very hard to get back in too. you will either get it right on the first try...

it seems strange that the hulls of these solvent resistant printers are not solvent resistant. that is nasty!

i did the western union payment. the girl at the counter in the u.s. filled out the ticket wrong and sent poor ebon back and forth to the bank four times just to figure out what was wrong. so for me, they worked really hard for my tiny $450 first order, did add ons for parts i forgot to order...

also, one thing to consider., there are bazillions of jv3's out there, and there will be a lot of small die hard shops that will be hard pressed to upgrade if the jv3 is still doing the job. i predict that heads and parts will be available in the aftermarket, plus a huge experienced user base...