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when you say "drop out", do you mean disappeared, or the test pattern is looking bad. i have a capping station on my fj-50 that is over 12 years old. they don't go out to easily in that the ink is basically glycol ether and pigment. to diagnose, first figure out if your dampers are bad...

one more thing. probably dinosaur novice advice that is best for my old cnc. when exporting, your image should be line work with the line width set at minimum, rgb black (is my favorite), no angles, no special ends, and export the file at at 0x0y orientation on your monitor screen.

i just switched computers and software for my cnc. and i had problems with my old .dxf exports. was getting runtime errors. what fixed it was when exporting in the corel window was choosing a much older version of autocad. i went to the bottom of the list an chose autocad 2.5 (probably from...

i'd post the question on the mimaki jv3 yahoo group. there are several people that can answer that question. i once had a tech discuss the location of them but since forgot... evidently they are easy to test (he said he simply tested them with a cheap on/off "beeping" meter from harbor freight.

tomorrow the falcon jr. guru's will be around. i bet they'll know.

that cyan sitting on top of the black is weird. i'm not familiar with falcon jr. but usually when you see that kind of anomaly, it is because the ribbons are crossed, thus the board is missing it's y position on a color.

if you turn off sub fill all the caps. check back about 30 minutes later to make sure that the fluid is holding. different machine's pumps have different stop positions. i don't know if roland caps hold fluid without shutting off the pump line with a clamp or valve. if you can shut off...

the only proof of losing prime is if your dampers are emptying. the printer works off of a siphon, but very delicately balanced. the pumps refresh the positive pressure inside of the ink lines. many people think that the ink tubes have negative pressure. it's that the tubes are weighted so...

as for third party, i've had less cleaning issues moving to triangle from mimaki SS2. the retarder ratio is slightly higher, thus giving the printer a bit of a break with the usual very quick drying SS2.

sorry man, that is some somber news.

no you can just let it dangle. i'd suggest putting some duct tape on it to secure it. if the boot goes well, the head carriage will head off to measure the media and you will want it to sit still for the ride.

you need to isolate if the issue is above or below the caps. first. do a damper swap. put the yellow on the red and vice versa. does magenta print from the yellow position? if it does you have a supply problem. if suddenly magenta won't print from they yellow position you have a vacuum...

looking at the nozzle check vs. printing anomaly, i don't think a deflected nozzle can cause that. there'd be banding within the solid black area of the print. and or the line to the side would be broken. instead it is solid. this looks more like a data issue to me. the black head is firing...

he could be discussing maybe one of three "current" issues. one, if you are properly grounded. changing a head is like any other repair to electronics. just like changing memory, or anything else in a computer... latent static charge can zap the board. not having the printer ribbons seated...

i think i remember a guy, this message board or some other that messed with an overspray issue for weeks. tried EVERYTHING with no luck. ended up being his drying fan had some how got skewed and air was blasting underneath the printhead at the point of the overspray.

remember to paint immediately (and i mean immediately) after prep. the aluminum will build an oxide layer that will multiply after painting. paint does not "peel" off of aluminum. it is pushed off by oxidation. just because it looks "silver" doesn't mean that it is clean. if it's going to...

that is definitely pointing to that head and not the board. you've isolated it correctly, using new cables for the data swap. do you have an old electronically good, mechanically bad/clogged head to plug in as a proxy to confirm the diagnosis?

custody wash for mimaki... you can fill the caps with solvent and that will keep the heads wet. but for an extended amount of time, the lines to the pumps will gum up. so if the machine is off for a good bit, get the ink out of the printer. i don't custody wash. i run a manifold directly to...

those boards have fuses on them that protect the board itself. i'll bet both slider and board (if damaged) can be repaired for a few hundred dollars. i had my cnc control box recently go out due to a small fire in my shop. called the dealer, repair cost $1800! gack! i start fussing around...

remember just unplugging your turning off/switching off the rear switch/unplugging.... is not the full protocol. after unplugging, you have to then press the front power button four times. it will light up as it discharges the capacitors on the boards. otherwise, you machine might as well be...