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I agree with subbing out everything. Hang on to the 10 grand. I only run my printer/laminator for short run, fast turn jobs. Yard signs, anything with white, ink multiple banners, etc... get subbed out.
One thing no one mentioned is if you do your own printing you also "eat" the mistakes. I...
If you're asking about the Sticky Yard you can use it wherever. I've found on vehicles I've been within half an inch or so on overall length. Haven't used it on a building yet, but would expect the same results.
Not much help I know...
It won't run well if at all. IIRC the specs on my Roland show a lower limit of 60 degrees F in a non-condensing atmosphere. Upper limit is around 80 or so F. My printer is in the basement since I can maintain a nice even 64 to 65 degrees F and 50 to 54 percent humidity. I watch humidity like...
Just noticed to OP's name then realized he runs Vanguard. Not sure if he's braggin' or complainin'. At any rate it's not something I'd post.
That pic has OSHA recordable all over it.:covereyes:
If you don't have the equipment or knowledge to do it safely hire a rigging company.
I have my printer in the basement. Only issue with ink smell is if we're running a marathon print session. Other option which I would do if I was in your shoes is heat and a/c the third garage stall.
You should be able to do that for a couple grand. I have two of these...
Wow and why? Two perfectly good forklifts. No reason in the world to do dumb stuff like that.
Next thing they'll be calling the mfg and whining their flatbed prints like poo. Good way to "rack" equipment and kill factory alignment.
If you shoot a single stage there would be no need for clear coat. You want to make sure the paint is thoroughly dry though. Do those vans have compound curved windows? If not you should be home free.
Although I've never laminated any of my airbrush on vinyl work I'd imagine the lam wouldn't...
Before the advent of digital printing I would airbrush all kinds of effects on vinyl. Shades, fades, prismatic letters, "chrome", etc... Never had a failure. I'd use the organic toners for enamels then clear coat.
Gotta remember you'd be using automotive paints. Stuff is made to hold up...
Forgot to mention that anyplace that sells auto paint can put it in a spray can for you. IIRC our local parts store charges about 14 or 15 bucks. Won't be out much if it doesn't work.
I reply to them that I'd be happy to help. But since they are a new client I need a cash deposit, and will meet them at a Starbucks of their choosing.
Been getting a lot less of the scam requests since I've been doing that. Must all come out of the same place.
I've never done it on perf, but I've sprayed vinyl with auto paint for an exact match. Single stage works a treat. No need for base clear. Only thing I would be concerned about is the holes. I'd spray the perf, let it dry then transfer to another liner.
THIS^^^^
Write-ups used to be good in many of them. Not anymore. All of them seem to be penned by freelance writers that have no clue about the industry, techniques etc... You can tell by the lack of in depth content.
Faux finish background then "age" the lettering. Or I'd start with a new panel made from barn boards. So many options/finishes it's tough to price. Ballpark I'd be around $500.
How simple is the design? Rivets/screws? I've used 1" tape for layout then a 4" foam roller to paint. Did a bunch of box trucks that way. If there are rivets or screws you should be able to use them as a grid for your layout.
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