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since all the nuts on the back will keep it from being flush? Depends, if there are lots of nuts, just trim the bolt flush, it'll lay flat. If there aren't many use 1/4" stock and countersink

We use whatever we have in the cut offs bin, aluminum, ACM, flat stock. Paint to match wall.

"but what if I need to get a pantone match?" I've used this place with great results. https://www.myperfectcolor.com/ One job was a bunch of acrylic letters with about 5 or 6 PMS matches, came out great and lasted really well.

Steam is an option or what we usually do, heat and fingers.....

Matthews

We use 3M 2080 white gloss color wrap for something like this. Like was mentioned, I would discuss skipping the more difficult sections to save time ($). It's a commercial truck and if it's mostly white some raw metal will look fine. Important to clean well before install. I don't have a set...

Why remove? Can't you go over the existing wrap with removable film?

I don't think they want to end up with no pre-mask, they just want to know how do you layer before masking.

We hand cut back. It's a PITA and time consuming. But usually the roll ups are anodized not painted.

With crappy text/line art it's easy enough to tell them if I don't get the right file it'll be $xx extra but I will give you the file for future use. If it's a photo/gradients I do as suggested above sending a close up screen shot. If they still want it I hit print.

If it were mine I'd paint it. Wraps are not happy with getting scratched and dinged. We do police cars and the doors look like crap after a year. Then there's the idea of your first wrap being a boat, compound curves are tricky.

Seems like some manufacturers have taken this situation as an opportunity drop products that may not be as popular or profitable. For example Arlon no longer makes 15" material.

Use the pdf

Best option for weight/dimension is HDU. Don't know what your capabilities are, but even without a cnc you could make faux wood with common power and hand tools. Then a faux paint finish. Mount some cast plastic letters on it and you have a nice look. Or you could do the same with trex, just...

You could do a mesh banner. I don't like the way they look but they are effective. We did a couple really large ones on the side of an appartment building that was maybe 10 stories. The banners were installed from a roof that was about halfway up. They lasted many many years in a brutally windy...

You need a better grade of plywood, I think ACX is the designation. After cutting seal edges with paintable caulk, the prime and paint with exterior grade paints. If warping is still an issue add some stringers on the back.

I also do a warm up print, but since you have tried multiple times I assume that's not the issue. A bad batch of material may be the problem. Also higher heat setting may help. One question, why are you printing white, isn't the material white?

(Hobbyist, I think it's 10" tall not thick) Canuck mentions an issue I have occasionally, letters being too thick. They can be illegible unless spaced apart. 3/16" is ok at 10", though I prefer 1/4". With mounting blocks they have a nice dimension. One other thing I usually hate is flush...

I install the lettering then install the clear over it.

I use cast for anything outside that is going to be there more than a year.