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to be honest, in our highly litigious society, you'd think something like this is worth class-action. we are wary about anything we boast in our marketing materials, as it can always come back to bite you in the ass. trade-only advertisement is misleading and back-dooring your clients to "cut...

can tell you right now, F@#$rs & S#@%world charges you at least 20% more than NGlantz. If you're content with paying list price, the same posted online/available to your potential clients, and not getting in touch with an actual sales rep. and beating them up on pricing for your regularly...

p.s. please don't bash technology without firsthand experience. if you're not running a machine yourself, and just installing graphics sent by 3rd parties, then you have no place here to spread hearsay.

crushing it, with my latex printer. any issues, may occur with shops still grinding out product on 1st gen machines now 7 -10 years after their introduction. edited to add: HP26500. LOVE MY LATEX PRINTER! Can't wait to upgrade to the 300+ series in the near future. Ran a solvent mimaki...

had an employee that kept complaining that he couldn't stop getting random hairs in his lamination. Turns out, he had a cat and showed up to work everyday with hairs on his sweater, and would just mindlessly start laminating stuff without taking proper precautions.

clean room, clean clothes & keep your print rolled-up graphic-side-in until lamination. humidity levels in the room also effect static, control your environment and you shouldn't have issues. long runs, I put on a pair of lint-free gloves and wipe the print center-outward, wax-on wax-off, as it...

thought just occurred to me, might be worth a try: double-layer 2" painters tape on the wall, with two double-layer 1" painters tape on top of it, side-by-side, creating a slight gap between the two 1" strips for your blade to glide-through. still using a straight edge as a guide, but the...

me? no. i just like scavenger hunts. adjusted perspective of your photo in photoshop, and isolated the text into black/white, and then used whatthefont to search it. They sell the font for $30, i believe.

whenever I've done zero-overlap seams, I just triple/quadruple-layer painter's tape right on my cut line, prior to applying both tiles. one cut through the middle, peel-away excess, and looks great!

Stereo Gothic, with rounded corners

+1 those heads don't simply fail, right out of the box. ...might be something as simple as flushing too aggressively, or mishandling/cracking a manifold during replacement, or dripping ink into a sensitive area. ink line and data swapping are known ways to diagnose what is actually happening...

and its not an insignificant question, we've thrown away tens of thousands of dollars worth of stock/scrap (over the course of ~20yrs) simply because we stopped wasting time/effort to peel the paper off "old" sheets. I started using citrus adhesive remover to "soften the paper" about a decade...

NO! close, but not close enough. use rapidremover, not rapidtac. works like a charm. just spray the surface of the paper with rapidremover/citrusbasedadhesiveremover, and spread it around with a rag/yourhand. let sit for 1-2min, and you'll see the paper turn that greasy color like the bottom...

both can look great, assuming proper use of your bag of tricks (design, material selection, prep, & execution) .....but it will always boil-down to your client's preference of quality, $$$, turnaround, & longevity.

noted, you will NOT get that look with everything on 2nd surface. ....there will no longer be that drop shadow-effect from having vinyl on face of plexi, being cast onto the frosted layer 1/4-1/2" behind it.

if 2nd surface, should be acceptable to use vinyl. I would print on clear, laminate with etched vinyl, apply 2nd surface. IF they're hellbent on spending more $$$, then paintmask 2nd surface, black painted lettering, mask again, paint with etched/frosted clear. can get cans of it at any...

^ one of them screws, and the other one can screw YOU!

yeah, rolling a straight line over a radius, gonna make it curve. tough one to fix, but if it were me I would use a straight edge to mark a straight-line across the top of the ribs and work your contour shape to keep along that path.

lol. you are correct. cutting PVC emits chlorine gas, which damages components of the laser. do NOT just "try and see if it works". plenty of threads in this forum discussing the headaches of such attempts. you should be looking into a CNC router table and the proper bits to cut coroplast...

we just expanded our facility, bought the building next-door and moving our graphics department over there. TONS of new room and can't wait to start making requests for new equipment.... HP 365 included :) ....in the meantime, i gotta keep wranglin' the gremlins under this hood. I think...