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Dampers can totally cause ink to drop out if they are failing. It's actually one of the more common issues.

It's more of a friendly disagreement. At the end of the day they both get the job done. But I am all for peace and love baby!

Adobe Illustrator! Don't listen to the CorelDraw people! They lie!

This question is coming up a lot recently for some reason. A perfect example would be one of my customers runs 2 Mutoh 1624 printers in the same room. This particular customer is a perfectionist and wants, not only the highest quality print, but he wants the colors from both printers to match...

This is cool but there are a lot of misleading facts in this marketing write up. They say UV inks have to dry? Not true at all. Having a re-circulation pump and agitation system is somehow a new innovative thing? I'll be interested to see it but HP is always stretching the truth in their...

I would make sure that your caps are draining after a cleaning cycle because if ink is staying in the cap after cleaning it can stick to the bottom of the head. After that, start by changing the dampers.

Check the bottom of the heads and clean off all the ink build up. Also, check the wipers and make sure they aren't completely guncked up. The fact that it clears up over time tells me there is just ink build up causing it to drag on the print and then it goes away once the ink erodes enough.

Do you save your files as anything other than the Flexi format? If you design a square and give it a color in Flexi and then send it to the production manager, it sends a Flexi file. If you save the file as an EPS and then send it over, it will print different because EPS files don't embed input...

If the room temperature is good then check the head cables for damage or ink splatter. If they are dirty, change the cables. If they look good, just take them out and reset them. Make sue to turn off the printer and unplug it and then wait 15 minutes to be sure you don't cause any damage...

The 1324 is more of a hassle to load because it has a bar that goes through the whole roll. The 1624 is much easier to load in my opinion. They are essentially the same machine after that minus a few internal parts that don't need to be mentioned. I have a customer who uses the Mutoh bulk system...

Make sure to take off any protective strips on the encoder before installing. Some come with protection some don't. Wear gloves to avoid getting finger grease on the strip and just be careful not to scratch it up. Be extra careful of the metal edges on the machine as they are sharp and can cut...

Dampers are the white plastic pieces on top of the head with a clear film on one side so you can see ink in them. There is one per channel for a total of eight.

Contamination comes from 4 main sources. The number one source is dirty maintenance parts such as the cap top and wiper but also just ink build up on the bottom of the head. Clean everything really well and make sure there are no inkcicles forming on the bottom of the head. + The second most...

Try cleaning the chip readers with alcohol and make sure they aren't damaged or out of place. If everything looks good on the chip readers, sometimes you just get bead cards from Mutoh and need to request new ones. Contact your ink dealer for that. If the problem persist, you could have a bad...

When Epson heads short out they do 1 of 2 things. 1 they blow a fuse and the entire head stops printing. Or 2, the short messes with the amplification circuit and causes the heads to fire erratically. You have the second option obviously. Check all the cables that go from the head to the slider...

Good to hear!

The worst head I ever recovered was a DX5 that sat with ink in it for 6 months. I used Goof Off and soaked it in an Altoids can because it was a perfect fit for the head to hover in the solution without getting the electronics wet. The I flushed with a syringe and more Goof Off and it came back...

Also, Brandsoftheworld.com has most major and a lot of minor ones.

Many people have come up with magical head flushing systems and they almost never work as advertised. I'm curious, what's your new way of doing things? In 10 years I have never found a better way than just hooking up a syringe and flushing it manually. If that doesn't work we replace the head...

Yup. CE series = entry level, good for small shops or part time use. FC series = professional production machine, good for running all day long and much faster.