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it will work. BUT Longevity will depend on whether the existing plastic has UV inhibitive properties, as your clear print will be exposed to sunlight without the laminate that would usually have this. I'd like to think your graphic would last just as long, if not longer, if your laminated...

I believe Fellers still carries Triangle-brand inks.

sintra is just a brand-name for expanded PVC. has a fairly smooth surface. easy to draw-on.

no love on the data-swap? I would have done this first before diving-in to swapping fuses/boards, or chance potentially opening another can-o-worms. attached pic for reference. basically, the printer sends information from the non-firing head to a head you know is working, to...

+1 sintra with pins/staples inside of a shadowbox. stay away from glue, as it would be the only method that could ruin this project before completion. plenty of vids with different methods here

setting cmyk values and printing with ICC profiles off has been my best-way to match brilliant colors.

yup. in 2007. http://www.sawstop.com/ roughly 4k for a saw that needs complete replacement once the safety has been engaged. however, I prefer my regular $500 table saw and its ability to cut everything ...including hot dogs.

I think I saw similiar signs at the Luxor during my last ISA Vegas trip. Anywho, I don't think this material is available in a photopolymer, so you'd be best to search for a vendor/local rasterbraille sign maker/engraver.

daaaaaamn, nice job! my biggest was 10ft x 150ft., but now I feel quite small.

a million questions come to mind here. mainly, make/model of printer and what/who's direction you were following for printhead replacement. *air bubble in the ink lines after printhead replacement is common. *broken manifold during printhead replacement is common. *vapor lock(air bubble)...

caps should stay full for a nozzle wash. (assuming they fill-up in the first place) powering-down the printer allows you to extend the nozzle-wash "soak" past the 99min max option on the printer. if the machine is already powered completely-off, you can manually slide the carriage-out, fill the...

most likely your pumps/capping station are clogged-up and not refreshing the siphon effect of your ink supply. which usually happens if you're not doing disway washes and cleanings regularly.

my best guess is calendared laminate. most perforated vinyls are calendared too. another possibility would be a RainX or similiar hydrophobic coating on the window.

do a data-swap to help isolate the issue to above/below the head. search the forums for "data swap". artbot has some easy diagrams to explain how it's done (power-down & discharge the machine's electrical before doing-so)

how about a polished stainless-steel laminate?

+1 unless the client specified otherwise, you did it like it should be done.

3M boasts their IJ8171 to be the "only cast perforated film on the market" Orafol says nothing about cast/calendared, which leads me to believe that your material is calendared and is not intended for applying to anything but a flat surface.

ya, know the limits of your printer/inkset. your issue is with ecosolvent ink, and printing on media that is not receptive to it. I print on laminates, colored vinyls, heck....even corkboard, all the time.... with my solvent jv3 aaaaand now my hp latex. ecosolvent, on the other-hand, is not...

+1 sculpt noveau is awesome. the DIY in me always wants to create the chemical reaction myself. I've done some rapid-aging of various metals for certain projects, and it always has been trial/error until I get my process down with vinegar & distilled water, but have had awesome results rusting...

I'd say to shop for a picture frame that they like, and give your rates for applying 2nd-surface vinyl graphics to the glass.