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been running my MultiCam 3000 series for almost 15years now and it is still kicking *** and taking names. absolutely no downtime aside from a few misc fixes due to operator error. Multicam is really good about tracking service inquiries and over-the-phone assistance. I think we have only...

I read that same document prior to my purchase of the HP26500... it is, to say the least, a bit biased in their claims. they even go as far to add this in their fine-print: they could have documented that their printed Snozzberries really DO taste like Snozzberries, and all would be fine and...

lol wow. never hurts to ask i guess! woulda been an AWk-ward installation day.

I would say ink issue. Your cartridges may have settled, causing inconsistent ink supply. Otherwise, your capping station may not be making proper contact with the printhead & not properly refreshing your printhead.

Racine, WI welcomes you!

also, just remembered I had a similiar issue a few years back.... check to make sure the media sensor is mounted square and in-position. on my jv3160 it was on the left-side of the printhead carriage, i'd image it is the same as yours? anyways, the fact that you are getting random scans leads...

slightly off-topic, but you can print the full 54" of material....yes, edge-to-edge, by using post-it notes or slips of paper to fake the machine into thinking the media is wider than it actually is upon loading/scanning (assuming you get your media sensor working via this thread). I used to do...

makrolon and lexan are brand names of the same thing, and exactly what you're looking for.... Polycarbonate. I prefer .188" (3/16in) because it will bend but still hold a rigid/non-floppy surface. also holds a bend from a break and cuts on a shear and thermalforms if need-be. great stuff.

1. 4 boxes over same image, placed where you want them clipped. 2. Copy/paste in place the same image 3 more times, 4 images total stacked on top of each other. 3. Create clipping mask using each of the boxes and one of the images beneath it. VOILA!

jigsaw or a bandsaw came before our CNC router, and they were still considered the correct tools. buuuut if you wanna use a rock instead of a hammer, by all means. I still think you would be better-off rough-cutting with a jigsaw prior to hitting it with your router. Router bits cut cleaner...

I have a CNC router with carbide upcut spiral bits and STILL don't bother trying to cut 1/8" aluminum in one pass. some good things take time, and there's no shortcut here. its like trying to shave your head with a Bic in one-pass while starting with a full head of hair rather than buzzing it...

+1 bordeaux ink rocks. great price point and zero-failure in the 7-8 years i've used in in my mimaki jv3. regarding your sc500 failure, i'm not familiar with that machine BUT, my thought is you may have been using their solvent ink on a printer designed for mild/ecosolvent use.

I've never had a request, client nor fire inspector, to have an evacuation map drawn to 3/8" = 1' (or similiar). But I have always made them square & proportionate ... or its like following a treasure map drawn by a 1st grader. the majority of architectural documents I've received as .pdf...

I use hotdoor, and love it. Expense is completely justified, cheap actually. That being said, I don't see how it would really streamline the drawing of evacuation maps. Still, I believe it is an essential tool for your design software if you're dealing with scaleable artwork/specs such as...

+1 rapid remover tho' i'll usually give duct-tape a chance beforehand. press/pull&repeat a million times with the same chunk of tape, usually lifts adhesive bits on most small projects. large fields of adhesive, however, rapid remover is definitely your shortest-route.

if you spray with HVLP, then you have a paint supplier. typically, when we have issues, we will discuss with our supplier what options they have available before muddying the waters with options you find online that are hard to obtain locally. #justsayin' anywho, you're not gonna get a good...

backlit banner material and signcomp tensioning system. ah, refacing? polycarb would be the way to go. that big a piece of acrylic would be sure to crack eventually.

+1 photopolymer or rasterbraille ADA signage production. I don't think anyone makes them via stamped metal anymore.

+1 profile issue. my quick fix, until I learn more about these onyx features discussed in the thread: I recently had to match 3M sunflower yellow, and could not do-so with my 26500 even after I thought I had profiled it properly BUT running files with ICC Profiles OFF and setting CMYK values...

booyah, by all means then. should work perfectly. you can most likely get-away without using laminate, if u like.