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steel bits = worthless. spend the extra buck and get carbide tipped, so you don't have to throw away bits every couple hrs of cutting. cncroutershop has a great resource for your settings/bits for different materials. Otherwise, dive-in to the youtube rabbithole and see what else you can come...

can shoot yourself in the foot real-quick if you just take someone's word for pricing on the internet, but with a budget like that I'd say you've got some room for profit. identify your cost of materials & estimated design/labor/install and then make the call. talk with your plastic supplier...

A: laminate it. the cost of reflective is pretty high, so why not protect your print with a laminate that only costs about 30% extra? beats the 100% increase in cost when you have to replace. B: though you're making reference to solvent printability when you're actually a latex printer, my...

could just be a bad connection between your capping station and the printhead, essentially not properly refreshing the siphon-effect of your ink supply to the printhead. try running a fillupink through the black printhead. if i'm right, you should be hearing a hissing noise at the printhead...

yeah, your problem is no longer the manifold. you've most likely gotten vaporlock, airbubble inside the printhead. park the carriage, and use a syringe to lightly draw ink through the tube the connects to the top of your inkpump.

CAT skid steer and a new Elliot G85. ...guess its time I get my CDL. All these new toys and I can only move them around the parking lot.

put your Cutline Spot color as a fill, not a stroke.

what does your test print look like? does the ghosting appear in uni-directional prints? I'm guessing that it can be either a misaligned printhead or a dying one. ...hopefully the former, but proper test prints/diagnosis required to confirm.

Jan 2, 2034 hope to see you guys then!

Anti-smoking ad campaign soon to follow.

dibond on the back should add a bit of rigidity, you may have just gotten away with a LOT of studs and gorillaglue. As deep into the HDU as you can afford. but since the dibond is there, use threaded rod with nuts on both sides of the dibond, with countersunk stud holes in the HDU to fit...

$1 says the window had RainX on it. #justsayin' i prefer dry for speed, wet for difficult applications & illuminated signage. also, after wet applying a masked graphic: spray the transfer mask & squeegee again prior to removal. softens the bond between the mask & vinyl and makes for easier...

+1 power it down during nozzle wash if wanting to leave it unused for multiple days, turning off both front & rear switches. i did it for up to a month on multiple occasions without issue. When you DO power-up for print, just make sure to give your machine some proper maintenance, scrubbing the...

search dual layer translucent print on these forums for more details BUT printed white trans. applied first-surface with a clear reverse-print (flipped) applied second-surface (backside) is the best solution for proper day/night color. adds saturation to the color of the face-print, when...

yeah, we've had aisle markers (dibond panel with cast 3M vinyl) installed in warehouse freezers for near a decade now with no issue. if you tried applying in that environment, however, expect a LOT of torn/shredded graphics.

RTape curls/shrinks less than TransferRight but neither stick to the backing paper of controltac materials. Big fan of reverse-winding the graphic after masked/cut (graphic side-out), as to keep the mask from curling & sticking to itself or other media.

wet apply and you should be golden. longest i've done in one-piece was 9'x50', vertical tiles I had pre-seamed to eachother & applied the whole horizontally, but it was dry with controltac. ...also helps that i'm 6'4" tall.

APC makes great models of all sizes/capacities. Tho' they may have a model that could run a large piece of equipment for a short period of time, I think you're looking in the $2k range.

inks wouldn't be expired would they? tried pulling/re-inserting cartridges? does it give any different a readout?

big fan of rasterizing my gradients prior to exporting for print.