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curious how much additional weight those crossbars are intended to hold, as it looks like they are already holding up the roof. a sign becomes a sail in the wind, which will add even more weight to the structure.

this has happened to me multiple times in the past, the line rots/cracks within the pump. machine can continue printing normally due to the siphon-effect of the ink, but the pump isn't actually doing anything but making noise and the waste-line is merely a cracked slide that allows for most...

no way is this issue above the head. the OP most likely notices this during the nozzle wash, with the carriage moved to the side, and when instructed to fill the capping station with fluid he watches 3/4 caps hold fluid and the one in question just simply drains-out. the ink pump is the issue...

same materials? lose bids all the time, just to find out they're using $.26psf calendared vinyl vs. my $.80psf 3M cast.

Dual-layer prints doesn't have to involve the backside, however, as you can just apply your clear print to the face and then overlay your white trans. print, if you like. I do front/back because you have a bit more of a buffer for registration/alignment. If slightly misaligned on the face...

yeah, regular prints wash-out at night time & double-struck prints look really dark in daylight. its a simple option to throw-out to your client and just let them decide budget vs. quality. at least they know what to expect for their $$$. everyone wants to be competitive but nobody wants to...

VHB tape & silicone is proly your only option. gonna be wavy unless you add some support, but would most likely double your materials cost.

double pass?!? not here, I hate how muddy/dark the colors become for daytime viewing big fan of print/lam white trans. on the face, with reverse-print on clear applied to backside. saturates the light before it hits the face's-print at night, causing it to illuminate properly. (I'll...

patina! good catch! i don't know why that didn't register for me right away.

I'd imagine they're referring to the ColorMAP book by AkzoNobel. my book shows 442B1 as a light/mint green & 419E6 as a light brown/cappucino colors.

guess it all depends if the client wants illumination or not. Banner material doesn't illuminate very well. i wouldn't try sewing flexface material, but you can plastic weld it if need-be. can get messy & it is not the prettiest finished product, but it works. I only do this for patching...

we use the aluminum signcomp ones. they most definitely do not break. worst-case, you may need to replace some screws/nuts that may have rusted, available at any hardware store. uncertain if there are plastic ones on the market, but doubtful. you should be good.

first coat was too thick, causing top layer of paint to dry over top of soft underlayer. When second coat applied, the solvents in the paint shrink this layer, causing the wrinkling. The way to avoid it – spray only when the temperature is 65 – 85 degrees, apply only light even coats, and...

out of curiousity, what was the material that is failing? was it laminated? big fan of Arlon 6500 for my cast transluscent print media. Much better price-point than 3M's 3630 series, with the same 7+year rating. zero-issues in the past 5+years since changing-over from 3M. For my "economy"...

acrylic or polycarbonate with translucent vinyl graphics. whomever you're outsourcing to should be able to figure out what you're talking-about just by mentioning you need a new panel for an "illuminated cabinet" sign. +1 to simply calling a local sign shop. even if you think you can shop it...

sounds like the stroke of the letter would have been too narrow for a stud anyways ...and even if possible, would not be wide enough to cover the blown-out stud hole you could have drilled with ceramic bits. i'd use epoxy, but you still need something to hold-up the letter while it cures. I've...

uncertain why you had to replace the slider board, seeing as how the error followed your ribbon cables when you swapped them initially. I'll read more, but original problem sounded like it was just a bad ribbon cable.

had same issue on my mimaki jv3. love the material, but hated the random striping shown in your pictures. Pretty sure it was the media rippling on the heater/platen and causing the ink to lay thick/thin on random high's/low's. I just burned the first few feet of the roll to get the material on...

Engraver's Gothic Bold? I only have regular, so I can't confirm, but looks about right.

I LOVE wrapping the edges of my single-sided graphic panels. Especially for intermediate-grade vinyl prints, reducing potential for edge-curl to zero for just a little bit more effort on the application.