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did someone say PEW?!?

doesn't have to be. only time you need to power-down the machine is when you're messing with/around electrical components

pull-out and re-insert. use that time to stir the cartridge and feel if there's any ink left inside. You may have just sucked them dry during the fillupink, which does take quite a lot. cartridge levels mean nothing to me in that machine, as I've had plenty of times where it would drop from...

your ink cartridges wouldn't be expired would they? if not, have you tried re-seating them? i guess back to where the issue started... so you started a HeadWash and cancelled it out when it prompted you to insert the cleaning cartridges, now leading the machine to keep prompting you KKCCMMYY?

when i used to get error30, it was because there wasn't enough media in the printer to cover the rear-sensor, thus not allowing the printer to run the test draw function.

all you can find on ebay when searching for wrap vinyl scraps... might be worth a shot to pick some up, but i'm not jumping to the front of the line.

should be fine. pressure sensitive adhesive sometimes requires a little love. if you're really worried, just give it a little post-heat (heatgun & felt squeegee) when your application is complete.

watchfire. though 10"deep might be too thin for a double-sided. they have a new "slim-line" but I don't remember the specs offhand. they're pretty awesome. programmed with radio transmitter, and UI service/support comes through them.

duct tape definitely works. otherwise, could always mount your pattern to coroplast, hold it temporarily with duct tape, and drill a couple of small tapcons into a couple of spots that will be hidden by your final letter install, possibly even stud holes. the coroplast helps keep your pattern...

also, what thickness polycarb? we use .188", I feel .125" is too flimsy in large-sizes. Not sure if that matters at all, just throwing it out there. anywho, I think your letters should be salvageable. Still, no pictures to reference, but I'd imagine your faces are just buckling. It takes a...

we rivot our f-molded channel letters. work just fine. curious to see the photos, but my bet is the letters were routed the exact size of the letter backer and then jammed-into the f-molding, thus causing your warping. since the f-molding has a an approx 1/2"-3/4" retainer, I always route my...

ZOMBIE THREAD hits derailment! search bar'd for ya added, someone already beat me to helpful answer. o well...

looks like two-halves of a "SignComp"-type aluminum extrusion originally intended for single-sided wall mount, with some custom manufacturing to create what you see. tho' I don't recall seeing the fluted detail on the radius in any of my signcomp catalogues. gotta be another brand. i'll keep...

Is downloading a movie off the internet not considered piracy until you burn it to DVD?

a likeness is a likeness, 3D/2D/recip-E buddy of mine is printing bobbleheads, and made a CaptainAmerica Bobblehead with Jonathan Lucroy's head on it (milw.brewers) ...he receives a message from Mr. Lucroy, via his twitter acct ...asking where he can get one! Just traded for some signed swag...

start with Photoshop for dummies to learn about the tools at your disposal. expand with the YouTube rabbit-hole (searching for "photoshop cs___" and watching video after video after video. lynda rox, however. helped a TON when I first started-out. videos in sequence of difficulty, and...

also, how's your nozzle test print look? Greys are printed using combination of CMYK and if a couple of nozzles are mis-firing, such as your yellow, the heavy C/M greyscale could come-out looking purple for certain.

Either a profiling issue or your laminate adding a blue hue.

it's supposed to do that. if you look close enough, there should be yellow lines in that magenta band. (i believe it is done this way because it is IMPOSSIBLE to see yellow nozzle testprints on a white background) your yellow ink is flowing just fine, and printheads firing as well, as you can...