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I agree, just make sure that if the design includes rounded borders and you use a mechanical corner rounder they match up with your corner rounder

We have used acrylic polyurethane adhesive that comes in a tube for chaulking gun. Doesn't expand and stay workable for a while.

We made all own, but there are many kits available that all you need to get is the material for the top/shelves. Get one with heavy duty casters

Tint. but when they are saying they don't want to spend any money....give them a gallon of white paint and a roller

what kcollins said, that's how I'd so it

1/8" doesn't allow a lot of room to flush mount a bolt. Might be better off using cleats VHBd to the back. Or vhb and lexel direct to wall. Other option is to screw right thru the face and use some cap covers.

No, we do the rope lasso to try to control it

Try a local commercial plastics warehouse...just be sure you are quoting sign grade poly

I agree about getting a hold of their branding book.

You have the right idea, start small and work your way up. Unfortunately though the business has changed so much that there isn't much money to be made doing what what can be bought on line for half the price. Hopefully you can find people willing to pay for small custom products that they...

Yes, unfortunately you have the wrong materials and technqiues combined with inadequate skills...The only thing I can think of that may salvage the job is to stretch the banners on a frame like you would a large canvas for a painting.

That doesn't appear to be a wrap....just a contour cut print. Cheap materials will fail quickly and 3-4 years is actually not terrible with extreme exposure. ...but 4 owners in 5 years? wow, I would anticipate more issues with previous jobs

I've used aluminum without any adverse results that I know of. I've also used ACM and Alumalite. I don't like using anything with wood after issues of wood rotting when we first started using HDU

Single face signs right? In that case and at that size .080 is fine. I like the idea of mounting the o80 first then fixing the HDU to that. You can us a construction/polyurethane adhesive and screws into the back.

Like silicone

As per Mozes suggestion, Lexel combined with VHB, but I know there are exceptions.

I like that idea. I would probably bend some .063 or 080 to make a custom sized bracket that is the same width as the crossbar

Why not VHB & adhesive the panels directly to the crossbars? You'd have a lot more surface.

I also would suggest ACM, but if the insist on plastic I would use polycarbonate. We did a large job for an industrial client that wanted No Trespassing signs that weren't metal, because scrappers stole the metal ones. We screened white lexan and they have been up for at least 10 years.

If it's a vinyl awning cast vinyl should work. To deal with the angle see if you can rent a lift that has an extendable floor