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Very nice Philip

I never heard that wax was bad for vinyl graphics. I did some searching and I see that some have that opinion, but this 3M document says its ok. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/706037O/caring-for-your-vehicle-graphics-wraps.pdf

I had a customer who's race trailer was parked next to his building, one side protected by the building the other facing the sun. 10 years later the sun side is completely roached other side just needs cleaning to look good as new. With quality cast films it really is about exposure.

There are clear acrylic pockets made for that. This is the place we use http://www.displays2go.com/C-27343/Sign-Sleeves-Displaying-Printed-Business-Graphics and Staples among other places has them. Your only problem may be size.

Do you already have the paint gun(s)? If not have you considered an HVLP Turbine Sprayer? Unless you need the compressor for other uses they are a good option. That's what we use and we've been very satisfied.

Wow, they have a lot of unhappy customers and multiple websites devoted to problems with them. But from the sounds of it they're satisfied with schlock work from their subs, so should be easy to keep them happy :Big Laugh just get 50% down and balance on install.

Is it printed to the edge of the material? We do decals that are larger than 11.8", but they can't have any printing larger than that.

Sign Gold isn't "real"? It says 22K on the box. I thought it was real gold fused to a vinyl carrier sheet.

I've used the R tape, it's pretty good. We clear it with either a liquid like Frog Juice or lam with clear cast slightly larger than the vinyl.

For "real" engine turn gold SignGold or RealGold. For "imitation" Coburn films is good.

I like that idea. Plastic formed faces would simulate embossed metal pretty well. Then paint to get the right finish.

Were they embossed? Usually those were back then, not sure where you could find them now, though they are probably out there. If you want them to look like they did when new I think a routed face to simulate the embossed letters and a high gloss finish might do it. That may be too thick though...

The real thing, steel or metal is great but you could do a faux finish print on PVC. I did this for a client for a trade show booth, looked pretty cool.

Check out the Outwater Plastics catalog. You may find some exterior plastic millwork that you could use.

Looks great and the red is better. I agree with Marlene though, a little more industrial back panel (textured metal?) would've been killer.

Good luck with that. You can use Clearshield antigraffiti but trying to clean banners that are on a truck will be a PITA.

Tikiboy works his magic...except I would do the JD in black

For cut vinyl graphics I almost always bottom hinge. That way it can't flop down the way a top hinge does and I can split it into smaller sections if needed. Usually only center hinge on panels, not letters.

Bottom one, but like Jill said stack the JD and maybe have the hammer come out of the top of the J

I like this idea. I remeber one of the plastic letter companies (maybe Scott) would supply letters prespaced on transfer tape