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Also, having your printer output type set to File means it just pretends the printer is there and generates print files. Needs to be USB or ethernet to actually do anything.

Keep the machine on (powered, can go to sleep) and in a good climate-controlled space. Essential for most printers to keep inks from going to hell and clogging up. Most issues I see related to ink are ink-related, but due to lack of maintenance.

The clients are the ones you're selling to, get their feedback. The heads on the UCJV300 are industrial heads, each channel is only 150DPI (since Mimaki uses a 4 channel Gen5 instead of the more common 2 channel 300DPI type). The higher DPI is done with scanning, so not as ideal as a newer type...

Section 4.2 will go through the calibration process/adjustments.

Head voltage is best left alone. Have a service manual to help check calibration? Might be a stagger issue.

Can also try tensioning the roll using the take-up roller to make it lie nice and flat. Either media is moving, or nozzles are missing if I were to guess.

Is your vacuum force set to high? If things start off good, the media might not be lying flat. On the quality page about 2/3 down is the setting to change vacuum.

Print a nozzle check? Clear ink can do weird things and get a bit foamy and fire weirdly. I think you can also try gloss at 1200x1200 DPI (that might not work, since I am using modded firmware, not sure if it is supported on regular firmware). Also, what firmware are you using?

If the board won't communicate, replacing the EPL3 is the recommendation. If swapping the board to a used printer of another model, it will need to be loaded with a generic firmware, moved to the printer to be repaired, and then have the parameters and model specific firmware transferred to it...

Will get an ink supply code that will stop printing if that is the case.

If things are clogged, will show up in nozzle check, worth checking of course. Since the printer uses subtanks, they are less prone to clogging/wearing out, but they can have other issues. Line issues mean you'd be getting errors on the printer as the subtanks have float level sensors in them.

What's your media compensation test look like and what head gap are you using?

People are welcome to just message me without reviving this thread. That said, I do not provide technical support for free to inactive members of the forum. I prefer to post things where they can be read and referenced in the future by whoever needs.

Gloss fuzzing is easier to spot than color fuzz in some cases. So worth checking out. I have about 20 compensation settings for all the materials I use. Most stuff can be passable with adjustment, but once gloss goes down, getting that accuracy can really pay off.

The JFX200 line is nice, the EX is only 3 Gen5 heads, but they are easy to keep running in my experience. Just make sure, whatever you're running, climate control is your friend. Support is everything if you're using a machine to pay the bills. I am in Oklahoma, so we're underserved on pretty...

Check your media compensation/head gap, feathering can be indicative of ink dusting as well as ghosting. Dumb diagram for illustration purposes.

Got lots of familiarity with Mimaki's lineup, but everything I run is in the realm of the used (we mod/fix stuff to fit our needs). But seen some really good results from some of the CET printers. The Gen5/6 printheads are great for flinging UV ink and tend to be really reliable.

I just see one image, so not sure what is what.

How large are your 'boards'? Have a budget in mind, what kind of RIP do you want to use? Just wanting to do CMYK, or want white/gloss. The LEJ's are decent, but insanely slow, so lots of upgrade potential from lots of models.

Are you doing 600x1200DPI and setting lamp mode to gloss? Can also stack gloss layers if you want to go fancy, but probably need to execute a pull-back. Things like environment can play a slight role as well, ambient temp, humidity, airflow, etc, but that's true with any printer. Some materials...