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HP's maintenance manual is also very thorough, and they have a ton of online videos. I'm not saying you will learn everything, but I would start there for free.

Depends on what you need prints for. If all you need are PLA scale models, just about any $4-700 desktop printer will do the trick. If you want to make exterior parts that will be in the sun for years however, you need something that can print ASA. This means a heated chamber and all of a sudden...

There just aren't many filaments that are great for long term outdoor use. ASA is the only cheap one that comes to mind, and that stuff is a pain to print because of the warping. So printing small brackets and stuff is one thing but anything bigger requires a heated chamber and the printers that...

I usually replace them at zero. The only HP latex that needs to be changed is the 570 where the intermediate cartridge cannot be used up or you have to replace the cartridge.

Thanks. Is it possible to calibrate mesh or non-opaque materials?

There are a lot of print maintenance tests and I'm confused as to which ones I should run and when. Is printhead status plot the same as printhead alignment? The manual says that I need at least 24" wide media for printhead status plot and color calibration. I have some 27" roll media (cut in...

We have a 560. Dead serious on the touchscreen. I would try to press the setting/utility bottom right button and it would frequently press the one to the left of it. It seems too happen more when the printer is booting up. Usually if I give it a minute or two it seems to go away.

I don't know how you get away with only 20" media loss. To spool the takeup requires like 4 feet for me. My yellow printheads seem to clog more than anything else. I wonder if this is related. Is that a built-in feature? Do you ever print without winding the takeup? We do a lot of mesh and...

Although considering how I've yet to hear anyone here succeed in finding a 831 Latex replacement, I do wonder how in the world some people like Bordeaux are offering such a thing.

Sizes are a bit all over the map unfortunately, but most will be at least 4'x5'. I ordered the color pencils to see how that works as it seemed like the least messy way to start.

Does any brand's white pencil work or does Stabilo have some special sauce?

The material is all black both sides.

What's a good way to scribe pure black material? Chalk? Pen? Tape? Blood? And other than big rulers, are there any tools or techniques for quickly measuring and marking a big rectangle?

Does your printer have the foam roller attachment? It might mitigate some of this.

I'm reading the contents of the $275 maintenance kit, and it doesn't seem like a lot of stuff to justify $275. In the box: 10 Sponges, 1 Cleaner Sponge, 3 Helical P-Wheel, and 1 Lubricant Oil Bottle I don't know what the 'helical P-wheels' are but a tiny bottle of lubricant should not cost...

Any idea why the very used old cartridge would still read 100%? Are the cartridges chipped or does the printer just assume that a new one is always a brand one one?

Ok, so after replacing the maintenance cartridge and doing a cleaning, the yellow is back down to <50. It still has the highest value of all the colors (everything else is <20), but that seems to have been the culprit. The really strange thing is that the maintenance cartridge was reading 100%...

I run a printhead cleaning almost every day to try to mitigate this. But the weird thing is that prior to my last print run, it was giving me numbers around 50. After the run (which looked fine) - the nozzles are now reading over 100.

We have a direct ethernet line from our PC to the printer to prevent data loss mid-print. The annoying thing is that if the printer needs to file an error report during boot up (because of forced shutdown like a headstrike), it cannot do that and takes like 20 minutes to boot as a result. The...