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I've printed on silver cast metallic before with great results. If my printer had a white option I can't see why anybody would use a special silver ink when you could print on a quality cast vinyl that would have a far better "metallic" content than you could possibly push through a print head...

Your take up roll tensioning could be too tight as well.

Open the PDF in photoshop as LAB color. It will grab the actual LAB color specs for the spot(s) and you can then convert the file to your output profile. It's not the most elegant solution, but it works.

Monaco Profiler 4.5 Profile Maker Pro 5 Picto Color Synergy Colorthink Pro ColorEyes Display Pro The poll wouldn't let me select more than one.

I have the exact same machine and have not had the same experience as you. I suggest you get in touch with Summa. I had some calibration issues at the very beginning but they helped me get it sorted out quickly and it's been nothing but smooth sailing ever since.

If you have a printer that can print white, you can just print on a cast metallic vinyl. I've done it in the past and it works great. Just knock the white out where you want the silver effect.

Accuracy is the same for both. The only difference is the T model has a tangential head for the blade so it cuts tougher materials (engineering grade, sandblast mask, etc) with more accuracy since the blade rotates to the correct angle for each cut instead of just being dragged behind the head...

I get them all the time. Some clients have doubled the payment, but the usual is an extra $20-40.

For offset I use 55/40/40/100. It's only 235% coverage which is pretty light for a sheetfed press. For inkjet I use RGB black and let the profiles and ink limits do their thing.

If I had any issues with tufts of cotton left behind or the head not being wiped clean I'd use more expensive q-tips and replace the wiper more often. I don't have either problem, so spending the extra cash seems like a waste of dough. I routinely print entire rolls of material without issue...

Don't mistake the raised texture of UV inks as being more durable when it comes to UV exposure. UV inks are about half the lifespan of solvent. They fade fast and if you expose them to light 24/hrs a day you can expect that lifespan to be even shorter.

I just use regular cheapo q-tips from the dollar store and use them often. I don't get any fluff on the head from it. Shoot I haven't even changed a wiper in 2.5 years let alone a pump, head or capping station. It's amazing how long they keep on working if you keep them clean and calibrated.

If the vinyl's already cracked you can try and hit it with rapid remover. I've found it works great on baked on adhesives and the cracks should allow it to soften the adhesive somewhat. If I have adhesive left behind after removal, a few quick squirts of the stuff and 5 minutes later I can just...

The service manual says to just cycle the power off and then back on after 2-3 minutes for both of those error messages. Both errors are related to the head memory. I seem to recall the error 07 requires you to turn the machine off and then back on a few times to give the machine a chance to...

I'm wondering if any of you guys have come across any vinyl that has a tamper proof adhesive built into it for label printing? You know the kind where you pull it of and it leaves behind a mark that shows it's been removed, usually "void" or something to that effect.

While the inks may be better, I'm not sure as a whole that a machine that uses up so much in electrical energy can be any greener than my solvent machine. Over the life of the machine I wonder which would have a greater impact on our environment? With the HP's requiring dual 220 lines and my...

They've spec'd the color and then they added 10% black to get what they want. It's not impossible to achieve a good match to what they're after if you know enough to ask them the right questions and apply the additional K tint correctly. I'm just going to assume they're using an Adobe CS...

Call a mover. It cost me $500 to move my printer laminator and cutter into a basement. Yes it was pricey, but it was some of the best money I've spent. Consider this. If they drop it, they cover the cost of a replacement. You drop it, or bend it, etc, and well, you know who pays.

I have the S160T and it is truly that accurate. I still put a little bleed on decals though.

and here I figured it was a big squeegee.