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A friend of mine was just given an HP5000 and several ink cartridges by a beverage distributor that was using it and upgraded printers.

Wow! I had the exact same experience with an HP laptop--same age and all. My brother has the same model, and his wireless card crapped out as well.

We've used Triangle JVS inks for 5+ years. I haven't had any issues with the ink. What Triangle ink are you using? ProWraps, the savings are significant (I can PM you if want to know how much)--not to mention the convenience of uninterrupted printing. I actually prefer the output over the OEM...

Funny. It could just be because I'm in the business, but I always check out the hole sponsor signs--sometimes thoroughly to see what kind of materials were used, etc. My playing partners always give me a hard time about it.

Are you using the Flexi RIP? Every now and then, the Flexi RIP will prompt me to rasterize a file containing a transparent lens before it will print. But 95% of the time, it works flawlessly. What RIP are you using? This could be an issue with the way the RIP parses Flexi's lens. As already...

I don't think we can blame Flexi for this. I use the Flexi RIP, and I print the brightest, most vibrant reds you'll ever want to see. It sounds like a profile issue.

Fellers is offering all their Flexi products at half price right now.

Oops, I missed that.

Gary, I would not recommend cleaning the encoder strip with any solvents like alcohol. Water should suffice. And there is at least one other method of slowing down the printer that hasn't been mentioned which involves the RIP software. Flexi's RIP, for instance, has an option of "Dry Time...

It could be a memory or communication issue. I would also check the encoder strip. Seems like I had that issue once, and it was resolved by cleaning the strip.

I would also love to know how that one turned out.:doh:

Could this be a printer issue rather than a software issue? If you send two files of the same length and they print at slightly different sizes, I would look at the printer (media comp, takeup, etc). Just a thought.

Wow, you look great in your new avatar photo!

I run everything at the thick position. Setting the carriage to thick definitely raises the printheads higher. It's not so much the materials themselves that are thicker, but buckled materials that can raise up and cause head strikes. So, I leave it set at thick or in the high position.

Sure, makes sense to me!:omg2: Actually, why did you charge them in the first place?

I will take a Pantone number any day. With a Pantone number, I have a hard copy, definitive color to shoot for. If I can't reach it exactly due to the limitations of process printing, then so be it. But, more times than not, I can reach the color. I loathe designs that include CMYK or RGB...

Can you post a picture of it? I've seen a wave pattern appear in light colors (light greens, especially) when the heat is set too high.

Yeah, that was really unclear. Because in your initial post you explicitly ask how to do a head wash? But back to your question, I agree with jens. Daily maintenance (cleaning around the print heads, capping station, wiper, etc) and daily printing should keep your nozzles firing. The best...

With the printer in local mode press FUNCTION. Arrow down to MAINTENANCE and press ENTER Display will read STATION. Press ENTER Arrow down to NOZZLE WASH and press ENTER The carriage will move to the left revealing the capping station. Fill the caps with cleaning solution. Using the arrow keys...

Tell me more about the "in-house" photo for the Hubcap Man job(s).