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I wonder how cheap he would quote if you asked him for an order of 10,000 decals? He certainly doesn't have much room to move (or common sense). I'm surprised I got in here before Mosh came along and dropped his now infamous "all day long" on us.

If the deal was for anything more than two beers you're ripping him off.

I've used Onyx, Colorburst and Wasatch in the past (+ many filmsetter RIPs). Wasatch has come a long way, but the Colorburst is still my favorite for color reproduction. I don't think they have much support available for cutters though. At least they didn't when I was using them.

Dry erase laminate over the area he wants to change and buy him a marker.

Change the background in the upper oval to the burnt orange.

If it seems to work fine except for the last 1.5 - 2' of material I would examine how the tension is changing over the last bit of the job. I have the GBC arctic titan as well and find that once it's locked and loaded I have to mess up the feed side for it go screwy on me. I'll also tend to...

I'm only printing black ink, so I don't think it will make longevity of the inks an issue without a laminate. Not so sure about the vinyl itself though. Will the overlam extend the life of the vinyl, or just protect the inks? Edit: I have a local supplier who's telling me I can use the 5700...

I'm looking for some recommendations for a printable reflective vinyl. It needs to go over some mildly corrugated panels. I'd like to avoid having to laminate it if possible. I'd also like to be able to use the same stuff for some cut vinyl lettering for a fleet of truck tailgates. Looking at...

I have no idea what font it is, but I sure do like it.

I just did a display with Intellicoat POS Pro 200/300 base that was laminated with a 15 mil polycarbonate from mactac. Very rigid, but will still roll nicely into a 6" to 10" tube if you handle with care. The laminate comes on an 8" core, don't expect it to fit on you laminator. I wish all...

There's not much you can do about it if the designer and/or printer don't leave the seams in an area that can be hidden nicely. Not all installers have the luxury of walking back into the shop and asking for a new panel. You just make the vinyl you have work.

http://filext.com/file-extension/CST

Why are you doing the spot to process conversion before you send it to the rip? That's probably the source of the color issue. Sending the spot color as spot should send the RGB or LAB specs to be converted directly to the output profile. Unless you're creating the PDF with the output profile...

heh, he said "butt sweat"

Has anybody ever tested color consistency from batch to batch with their 3rd party inks? This is one of the major issues holding me back from switching from the OEM ES3 inks.

This probably doesn't help much, but here's what the service manual says about an error250.

I use wasatch rip and mine turn off.

You may be able to run some cleaning cartridges through the ink lines to clean up any residue that may have built up. This should also allow you to be able to inspect the ink lines more easily as the cleaning solution should run clear.

Did you find improvement with more heat or less?

I use Photoshop, AlienSkin Blow Up and Genuine Fractals. Each has their own strengths and weaknesses. In the end, there is simply no substitute for having a top quality photo at the correct resolution.