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I'm following this, as our epson S80 has just started having some banding issues after 4+ years, and it looks like the head 2 isn't putting out enough ink based on the color of the ink in the caps.
I can repair every other printer we have without any issue, but haven't had to tackle anything...
There shouldn't be any real issue with powering it off at night, as long as the main power is still on. It'll turn on and clean itself every so often. It might actually clean itself more often when powered off than when fully on and in local mode.
make sure your blade is extended enough and that it's calibrated properly. I usually pick my toughest material to cut when I set the blade depth, get that one working, then work on the rest by only changing the pressure.
The fan by the circuit boards make a little bit of noise just like a computer does but it's not noticeable.
I've had mine idle for weeks at a time with no issues when I start printing again. It does an excellent job of circulating the ink.
follow the calibration instructions in the manual to the letter. Thickness of your material matters greatly over any kind of distance, so you need to set a profile for each thickness of material if you want to have accurate cuts. Also take your time in calibrating the tangential knife. It can...
I found some ij180 in stock...I think, so I've got a roll of that coming to use on the next set of jobs. I know our application guy doesn't like it, but he's finally realizing that he's got to work with whatever we can get.
we're testing another material, but we've used LX480 for a specific process for years so we know it works. Was hoping someone had a roll laying around they'd part with.
Anyone have a roll or know where I could buy a roll of 3M LX480mc? Naturally it's another material being hit by supply issues, and I've got a job that'll use most of a 50yd roll this month.
ij180mC-10Ur is my problem right now. Placed an order 2 months ago and there's no ETA. I have a couple of products I use that for specifically, and I'm down to my last little bit. Going to have to pull those from our site I think.
there's really only 2 ways. Either buy/borrow the laptops and create cutpaths for them by actually applying them, or buy from a reputable company that already creates those skins and just scan their parts. I can tell you from personal experience that some laptops are a pain in the rear to...
I run ours through the laminator with as little pressure as possible and the slitting blades set at the width I want, and put the correct length tubes on the takeup reel. It works pretty well, and I don't get any gummy or frayed edges.
I meant they didn't get a special vinyl made just for them, not that 3M didn't find them a different one.
It was the di-noc that caused the damage, at the time they didn't even have prints. They switched to 1080 for the switches, and then ij180mc-10UR for their prints when they launched that...
just because those companies say they worked with 3M for a "special" vinyl doesn't mean they did. In the case of dbrand they just switched from di-noc to 1080/2080 for the Nintendo Switch.
UV tends to shrink and leave cause air pockets under these materials, far better to print with solvent...
are you printing from a mac at all? I ran into an issue last summer with printing from a mac running windows, and the color of a previously printed file randomly shifted and nothing I did would bring it back. Switching to a Windows PC solved that problem.
Are you using a mac? I had a similar problem with greys turning brown, switched from a Mac running windows to a dedicated windows machine and it fixed the problem.
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