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What if you just did the lock logo big on the middle slider door and then tie in all the other services on the back section of the sides. That way together everything ties in nicely but when he opens the door all you will see is the big lock logo.

Sorry I line everything up to my personal plum line and it's a little crooked to the left.

My guess is they do a lot of repairs out of the van. So the van is parked on site with the door open usually the whole time the guy is working. If someone drives by they wouldn't be able to tell what it is.

Much better I was wondering why you have a high top van but not using any of the space. Personally I would switch the doors and the big logo.

I had loaded sheets into my L25500 before. Just a lot harder to line and square a run up. But it works. I remember it prompting me saying the roll load direction was not detected and you could try again or continue. I just continued and printed as normal.

Possile that it was saved in an old flexi and a new update has changed. Rendering itents all the same as before?

This is what we are trying to help him find. But since the driver is not from flexi and the plotter is cheaper brand. The controls in flexi production manager are not the same as your FC7000. I would talk to flexi first and see what options they have for you. If you have no flexi support the...

It must be telling it somehow to change the speed and force. Where did the drivers for the plotter come from?

ya

Send cut to prod manager. When you open to set up the position of the cut. There is a little pen/knife tool tab at the top. Click that and then double click the " black cut fast" yours might be different color. Then you can either choose to have no settings and it will follow the plotter...

and a little extra

It will take a little work. Take ruler and find the point where the bottom line and far right line meet at the bottom right of the design. Make that the 0,0 on your plotter. then set up your cut so that the 0,0 starts from the same point on your design on the computer. This should be fairly...

are you referring to the strips to put on the wall so that you can make magnetic signs that can be put on and pulled off the walls with ease? Just use a roll of magnet and double stick tape to the wall.

You should recalibrate every time there is a head change. Furthermore you should recalibrate every time there is a head strike. The 360 also prompts you to recalibrate after loading a new ink. I have been through multiple sets of ink and a couple of each print head. Colors are still the same.

It's not huge time saver if your like most shops who don't let their prints cure correctly after printing. If you do correctly let your solvent prints dry then your saving a lot of time being able to go straight from print to lam to cut.

.60 is super thick for a traffic sign blank. I believe you meant .063 aluminum with a reflective sheeting. I can make and send these to you. Standard 1.5" radius. Sheeted with 3M materials.

I just got anti-graffiti unless the customer also wants a uv protection. Then double lam with the anti graffiti on the top.

As to the waterproof question on the vinyl. The vinyl is most likely waterproof but not the adhesive.

different style laminator then the rest. This works perfect. I think a lot better then a standard laminator wedged in between. Then on the other side is a standard laminator with a 20 foot table in front of it.

You should have foam inserts that suspend the panel inside of the box for shipping. Then decorate the hell out of it with fragile stickers.