Search results

Sounds like they need to be pocket laminated. Or try having the laminate extend over the edge of the print a 1/4"

It seems to be an issue with the particular hub it goes through...some places are always early or on time and others always get screwed up.

I use Rapidtac 2, but in a pinch, a couple drops of dish liquid and a splash of denatured alcohol in a windex bottle

Sad? For me sad is spending $$$$ on used equipment and then starting to realize what's involved ($$) in learning how to use them and keep them running. Or you can spend your time selling, designing, fabricating and installing signs. If you follow this forum you'll notice that half the questions...

Try outsourcing first, there are good wholesale vendors on this site. You may find you stick with outsourcing, you don't have to deal with maintenance and screwups and you have access to materials that would be cost prohibitive to purchase for a particular job.

The solution for washed out prints is a day/night layered print. I was just asked the same thing for the first time...and I am using cut translucent vinyl. They were concerned that I match the other panels on the sign. I think it may be from people either using replacement panels which have a...

Unless I had a direct contract with corporate purchasing (like some of those online place realtors buy their stuff) I'd make them whatever they want.

If it's just a flat sign I would think mounting tape & lexel would hold. Maybe take advantage of the surface and design something that has really complex shapes, Letterhead style and apply straight to the glass like it was painted.

No price, only guesstimates and charge by time is my go to technique

We had big silkscreen racks we got for free from a place going out of business. They were expensive when new and built to last. Didn't us them much, tried to sell them and nobody was interested so we scrapped them. Might do a search for used racks, they work well

I like these R Crumb looking ones from Cabelas

Yea, I tried it with the cheap stuff and its wasn't successful.

Great suggestion to go over the existing base, that's why Iike running seemingly simple issues by others

We got both kinds...Country and Western.

Does it have to be in the same exact spot? Why not move it over a couple feet? The brick will probably come down easy with a sledge and then leave the pad. Or I've been wanting to try one of those mini excavators, add the rental cost and a days labor.

Yea....not feeling it. Good job and what the customer wanted but turns my stomach.

I wouldn't say that was a good job. The seam isn't done well and is that white showing through on the panel behind it? And the wrinkles look like they were worse and that's as good as they will get. Whether it's an acceptable job is another question. Some clients prefer price over perfection and...

Yes, you can adjust the halftone and lines per inch. Usually it's done to smooth out the gradients, but I think I did some where I increased the dots. The lower the LPI the grainer it gets. Not sure if it will work but it's worth a try. I attached pics of where it is. The only other way I know...

I've never done it but you may get that effect by changing the halftone LPI

If it's just a smooth gradient we do them all the time with Gerber Composer. When you use the "Assign Colors" box "Gradient" is one of the options. You may have to play with to get the exact same fade. If it's a "Dot" pattern made where you actually see small circles of color you have more work...