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I use mostly Gerber/3M vinyl along with Arlon. Arlon has a nice material made for cheap thermal printing, Cal Plus Thermal White. The there are the exotics, like Sign Gold, when mistakes are costly.
The customer is selling their house themselves and hired a designer to design a sign who doesn't know the standards for the industry and then you are expected to solve their problem. If the file is editable I'd suggest reworking it to fit or just print as is and let them buy the frame.
Who gave you the value of 70K for the equipment? Instead of your accountant I would have a business broker or an accountant who does more of this type of work.
Definitely need more info...but from the meager description it sound like it's not a large sign. If I could, I would add more studs and use epoxy, both in the holes and on the back of the sign
We install some that are supplied by a national company that specializes in sports applications. It just looks/feels like a heavy, very sticky vinyl with a good laminate. They usually lat a full season in a college rink. But for the graphics in front of the benches (where they get beat to hell...
Garston & Hyatts...and whenever I run across someone selling used ones. Great thing about edge foils, they don't go bad.
I've bought a boxes of partials from people whose edge died or they got out of the business for pennies on the dollar.
I'd use VHB with a couple dabs of lexel....but the wall be ruined when they take them down. So if that is a concern screws with anchors is the way to go.
I used to love hand lettering boats, because back then the same guys who would cheap out on anything for their business would blow big money on their boat for the bragging rights.
And back then my cost was in the pennies for a small cup of paint compared to now. And they paid cash.
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