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That trick for figuring out the depth of the pole is pretty neat. But that still doesn't tell you the size of the concrete footing. I guess if the pole is deep enough, and heavy enough, you can go with that . Around here it's the combination of concrete footing & pole that holds a sign up...

Got a shovel?

It's an old topic that's been beat to death and you'll get a multitude of conflicting opinions. The place to start is with the original job contract, spell out your policy, whatever you want it to be. Then you have to decide on a case by case basis how you want to handle it..

Wow Bruce I'm really sad to hear about your wife's health issues getting worse. You've built a great business doing quality work, sorry to see you go but I completely understand. If I can help let me know.

"started out with hand to eye layouts and execution, but went to the Sprint, which was before composer and then to ANAgraph and got Composer back in the late 80s" this was just about my path too. I now use Composer and Corel. Composer was deigned to make signs, so a lot of the tools imitate how...

Yes, just have the whole thing printed and laminated and apply to an appropriate substrate panel.

Sorry, that wasn't clear, not bolts thru the post, just the signs. We drill 4 holes on the pair of signs just wider that the square post. Then pinch the signs to the post with the bolts.

Are they round or square poles? On round the Signfix or similar will work. On square poles with two signs back to back thru bolts right up against the pole will work.

Around here they just call them sign hangers, come for 1/2" and 3/4".

You've tried the stock photo sites? I use 123RF, but there are many others.

Yes, stand offs is nice, but mounting tape combined with adhesive would work.

Agree with Gino. We install small signs, like 18"x24" on parking lot light poles, and they sometimes twist a little in a good storm. I'd suggest light pole banners instead.

Wasn't mentioned originally. One year is easy. After hearing the whole story I'd still do it the same as my original suggestion. Probably hold up for 3 or more years.

I didn't see where he said there was a warranty involved

also, you can get opaque coro or use a thicker sheet for better looking signs

Gino, haven't you berated people for having a "garage" shop mentality when it comes to pricing? "I have no overhead so I can charge less."? I don't spend time checking prices, but with your scenario, I'd love to make an extra $1k on a project once in a while. And why wouldn't the customer be...

Maybe I'm leaving money on the table, or maybe I should just stop bidding certain products because the market doesn't support what I need to get. Maybe I'm just curious to see what other places get. The idea that the local market should have no affect on your price is ridiculous. We don't live...

I care what others charge, I want to know the market. Some jobs are public multiple bids, so I get to see where everyone was. If customers are obviously shopping i will ask them if i don't get the bid. I haven't done it in a long time, but secret shoppers is an effective method too.

Grommets and get ceiling clips made for drop ceiling grids, assuming that's what they have

The requirements vary from town to town. Most require proof of comp & liability insurance. Some require engineered drawings for anything. There is no "Sign Contractors" license in this state. But a few years ago some of the big players in the market snuck in a new license for Electric Sign...