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I think the same thing. I would go with an offset printer and/or stouse.

So I've just got the 3m adhesion promoter 111. Is it me or it's just a overpriced bottle of alcohol? Is there anything else in that stuff?

It's dry erase film. If I'm not mistaken, it's calendered vinyl with a thin layer of polycarbonate. It's 6mil thick with a permanent acrylic adhesive.

So I've just ordered the 3M adhesion promoter 111 and the manufacturer of the material suggest me to use sealitpen. It seems to be similar to the 3M edge sealer but in a pen. What do you think?

Does anyone know how is the scratch resistance between the HP latex ink and Mimaki UCJV uv ink? We practically never laminate our prints and I would like to know the answer in that particularly matter. Thanks.

Oh! and just to be sure. Do we talk of the 3M edge sealer 3950 or the 3M adhesion promoter 111? In my mind it was the edge sealer, but after googling it, I saw the adhesion promoter.

If I press it down it work well. It take few hours before it lift again. I would prefer to go on the adhesive route to have a better esthetic look. Those are my first idea, but did you ever tried it? Good to know. I've used double sided tape for a corner on another projet and it worked well...

That was my first idea, but like you I'm not sure if it would work on painted drywall. Someone said ''construction glue'', but that's very vague.

I've just installed several linear feet of dry erase material with an permanent acrylic adhesive. I've used the 3M test kit prior to the install and everything was fine (paint have been there 3 months prior to the install). The install have been made a little more than a month ago. Now, I have...

So just for a follow up. I've installed my two signs using two strip of VHB tape and some Lexel (the specification of the lexel said it work up to -18 celsius or 0 fahrenheit). The outside temperature was around -8 celcius (17 fahrenheit). I've heated the sign and aluminum surface with a torch...

Wait! So you do contour cut all the way through the backing paper without using the flexcut option? How do you do this? I'm very intrigued.

We use step drill too and never had a problem. Even if it is a newbie doing it.

Hi have the milwaukee that I use for touch up only. But I have to say that this Ridgid with the butane is interesting. 31min is impressive. I assume the heat built is faster too since it's butane operated?

We do tons of dry erase vinyl. We always ask for an oil based primer or use Zinsser Gardz. We prefer Gardz because it's water based and it dry within 3 hours. So you can install the next day compared to oil based primer that you have to wait 6-10 days in average. The dry erase vinyl is...

do you have an idea of the price for the pro 16H? Also, did you had any problem with ink adhesion on acrylic for reverse prints?

That chinese one seems interesting. At almost 1/3 the price of a fotoba XLD. I will have to make more research about this one.

I've had the same feedback. This is why I'm looking for another option.

I've got a friend of mine that is looking for a hybrid printer with specifications similar to the Mimaki UCJV series. Something that would be similar in speed with white and clear ink. The rigid substrat will be mostly acrylic, dibond and coroplast. The first model coming in mind is the Roland...

We are open 9-5 M-T and close at noon on Friday. We normally still there but production goes faster without anyone at the door or calling. A friend of mine have a shop that all production crew work 3am to 1pm 4 days a week and the sales/design team work 9-5 5 days. The production team asked...

In my case, it's just cut vinyl. But I always wondering how it would look and install on drywall for printed film. Do you mind sharing what material you used and the technique? Did you premask it?