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I'm unaware of any thicker clear permanent print medias other than 3 or 4mils. If you have a UV printer, one product I think is cool is Retac Clear which is a pvc-free PET film with their Retac adhesive. While it isn't permanent, it won't go anywhere unless someone wants to remove it. The...

I'm happy to introduce you to some customers of mine who have built really great internet portals to help you make real estate signs. You just upload a few details and they crank it out (my wife is a realtor and she uses one of them and pays around $100 for a great and durable sign) If you are...

Unless you left an object between the rollers and the rollers down, it can't really be a flat spot. Flat spots would be visible from end-to-end and would be maybe 1/3" wide. Even if it was a flat spot, heat the rollers and let them run together for a few hours and they usually go away. It...

late response, but you should consider changing all of the tubes annually (assuming you run the machine most days). They start to crimp over time and starve the heads. My tech does this all the time and it avoids a lot of problems.

You can purchase a new roller from Seal. Getting a roller recoated usually takes several weeks. Seal should have the rollers in stock in Wisconsin.

What temp are you curing at? 24 degrees is a really good number...sometimes when the temperatures go too high it will cause the ink to migrate one way or another. If you go back and study the gloss mode prints and if you don't really see the banding in the glossy mode, it could be something...

Signs365.com or hit up Imagine This in Ohio....they can do small runs. There is a new'ish product from Continental that you should check out...it is a clear vinyl with removable adhesive but the vinyl film itself has white prisms which give you something of a 'white base'. If you haven't seen...

I don't know Solventinkjet.com, but if they are selling deeply discounted heads, it is likely because the heads are graded and classified after production and they didn't meet the requirements. The manufacturers test the heads for accuracy and if they aren't absolutely perfect, they are sold...

When rolling graphics you have to really consider the films....while the 'best practice' is always to roll image out, it isn't as much of an issue with PVC products...definitely a big issue with material that has no 'give' like polyester, PET, anti-grafitti, etc. Rolling image-in puts so much...

Try Continental Panorama One. Awesome film, great liner, and amazing price. I sell it for $391 for a 54x164.

There is clear perf if you have white ink. You print color-white-black and install 2nd surface. Since the graphics appear to be so small, is perf really needed? If it isn't really needed, then switch to Polar Smooth 150 Air which is 6mils thick with a clear removable or permanent adhesive...

It isn't the easiest thing for an amateur to do. Do you work with Sonoma? I'd be surprised if their technicians don't know how to reset the nip.

Are they laminated? It is odd that it appears most of the issue is at the top and bottom and not on the sides. I wouldn't recommend putting perf on anything other than glass....it appears the metal surface has some texture to it. Seeing that you have anywhere from 30-40% of the graphic with...

what laminate did you use? Was it a PET based film? If so, it would appear trying to pair a PVC with a PET and rolling the graphic image-in may have caused delamination.

At the very least try out Polar Grip from Drytac. They don't charge for sample rolls, but they ask for your UPS number to cover the few bucks in freight. This is a film which is highly comformable as well as a high coat-weight of adhesive coating to stick to the cinder block. Best of all, it...

Pretty odd width. Can you not use 54? I have a roll slicer and can cut a 54" down to 48" if that helps you out. My warehouse is in Cleveland.

It isn't really the level of adhesive aggression that matters, but rather the coat weight of the laminate. If you don't have heat, then go with a laminate that has more adhesive and you should be fine. Drytac's Interlam Pro should do the trick for you.

Why not go with the new Roland XP? Faster, cheaper ink, and a heck of a lot less heat and power required to print. With permanent heads, you'll get consistent color from month-to-month as well. I'll gladly send pricing.

I love Polar Grip, but that would be an absolute bitch to remove after several months. That adhesive is, simply, angry. If you want to do window graphics that are going to stay there forever, this would be an option, but if you want to remove, and remove cleanly, I'd go in a different direction.

Matt was nice enough to email me about this. Drytac's Polar Smooth 150 Air is a 6mil semi-rigid (no stretch) with a clear removable adhesive and an air-egress release liner. This is why I recommended it: - 54"x150' is around $400 - The adhesive can be applied in temperatures down to -5...