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3M 1080 Lifting around Contours

HulkSmash

New Member
we always post heat vinyl that is laid into channels. 3m recommends you post heat the entire wrap. i think they are right about doing it. we dont usually do it other than the channels. but there is a reason for doing it.

Post heating the entire wrap is dumb. Channels make sense, But when you heat and work it in, it usually suffices..
 

Smacka

New Member
you do a better job designing and printing correctly.

Designing and printing have nothing to do with it. Vinyl is vinyl no matter what is printed on it. Here is an example. Take a piece of vinyl and lay it over the mouth of a glass, now work it down into the glass without heat. Pretty soon you are going to run out of material with a long way to go to get to the bottom (lets say its a short glass) how are you getting the vinyl to go past its stretching point without heat? That was my original question. Maybe it lost something in translation.
 

ProWraps

New Member
Designing and printing have nothing to do with it. Vinyl is vinyl no matter what is printed on it. Here is an example. Take a piece of vinyl and lay it over the mouth of a glass, now work it down into the glass without heat. Pretty soon you are going to run out of material with a long way to go to get to the bottom (lets say its a short glass) how are you getting the vinyl to go past its stretching point without heat?

you. are. stupid.
 

Smacka

New Member
you. are. stupid.

Don't resort to name calling Barbara, answer the question. It is a legitimate situation that happens to everyone and I for one am not seeing the logic in how the design is done makes a difference in how the vinyl underneath it lays on recesses and curves. Please explain.
 
Designing and printing have nothing to do with it. Vinyl is vinyl no matter what is printed on it. Here is an example. Take a piece of vinyl and lay it over the mouth of a glass, now work it down into the glass without heat. Pretty soon you are going to run out of material with a long way to go to get to the bottom (lets say its a short glass) how are you getting the vinyl to go past its stretching point without heat? That was my original question. Maybe it lost something in translation.

Well I haven't done a full wrap... yet, so I might be out of place saying this... but wouldn't you design in a bleed of an extra X amount of vinyl with the design on it, so you have plenty of vinyl to go into and around areas?
 

Smacka

New Member
I got a call from a client today that said the 1080 is lifting from an area of the vehicle where there is a deep channel we heated the vinyl into. Any suggestions for fixing without reprinting the panel? I did not use a primer in this are which in hindsight I probably should have.

This is the post that I was going off of.
 

Smacka

New Member
Well I haven't done a full wrap... yet, so I might be out of place saying this... but wouldn't you design in a bleed of an extra X amount of vinyl with the design on it, so you have plenty of vinyl to go into and around areas?

Again.....Running short on material LENGTH is not what he was asking. He was asking about putting the vinyl down in a recess without primer. Right?
 

J Hill Designs

New Member
yes but we are speaking upon your question "what do you do when you run out of material and its 3 inches from the bottom of the channel and already tighter than ****'s hatband?" you design in a bleed so you dont run the eff out!!!
 

Smacka

New Member
Really? REALLY?

What is so hard to understand about this? Ok, for the last time. My response was "What do you do when you run out of material", and that was a reply to the post saying that he doesn't use heat and primer... meaning, once you work the vinyl as far as it will go cold, how do you get the vinyl to stretch further into the recess and stick without heat and primer. What does that have to do with bleed? I thought it was self explanatory but I guess not. Sorry.
 

Smacka

New Member
you lay it in brutha...that is, if you have enough material

Well, if you can "lay it in" to a deep recess (like fog lights built into a molded bumper for example) and cover all the under color with no heat, no primer, and not relief cuts, and not distort the surrounding image on the edge of the recess, well then you are the master and you are my hero!:U Rock:
 

HulkSmash

New Member
Well, if you can "lay it in" to a deep recess (like fog lights built into a molded bumper for example) and cover all the under color with no heat, no primer, and not relief cuts, and not distort the surrounding image on the edge of the recess, well then you are the master and you are my hero!:U Rock:

Better get on your knees and start worshiping.

Not one cut, no primer, No stretching marks, No tears. We wrapped couple of jeep wrangler bumpers from silver to gloss black.

Ironically working on this TODAY.

in 2 pieces for the front, and 1 in the back.

I'm your hero!!!!!!!!!
 

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Smacka

New Member
Are the silver and black separate or one piece of vinyl laid in? If one piece, you used no heat and no primer? Please tell me yes (don't lie) I would like to think that the vinyl would conform (and stay) like that without heat and primer.
 

Smacka

New Member
Opps, you did say it was separate. I can see the edge and what looks like fingers in your black and your silver looks crooked going into the light. Not ready to worship quite yet.:banghead:
 

HulkSmash

New Member
Opps, you did say it was separate. I can see the edge and what looks like fingers in your black and your silver looks crooked going into the light. Not ready to worship quite yet.:banghead:

Do you read? It's a full BLACK wrap bumper. It's in 2 Pieces. The silver part is still the bumper. NO PRIMER, NO RELIEF CUTS.

Again the Silver is the bumper that hasn't been warped yet.
Again. NO primer. Yes, obviously we used heat. No Relief Cuts..
The black part isn't even pressed down in the middle, it's drapped, But yes we wrapped the fog lights.
 
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