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Attaching sign to building...

petepaz

New Member
Aside from all the code & permit issues, you need to know what is under that siding. That is what you'll be fastening to.
+1 to that!
i just had to go re-install a sign for a new customer, i didn't make or install it the first time. it was installed on an aluminum building (like corrugated/channeled alum?) but at least 70% of the sign wasn't screwed in to studs just in to the alum panel so of course it fell. especially during a hurricane.
i screwed and siliconed metal brackets to the wall (the screws where in the studs) then i mounted the sign to the brackets and the building. if this thing falls again it will be taking the wall with it. (hopefully i don't have to find out)

the sign was 23ft x 3ft i think you need a little more support than just screwing in to the alum panels
 

brian_fellers

New Member
Agreed on Municode or Amlegal. You can also just try the city's website in which the install location is in. They'll usually have their codes accessible or more often than not they'll link to one of the aforementioned sites.

It's typically faster to look up the regulations yourself rather than try to get a city official/employee on the phone and try to get the specs from them. Most don't know them off the top of their heads (or don't care enough to be of any real assistance).

If going this route, you will likely have to call the city with the install address first and obtain the zoning for that location then reference the sign reg's for that particular zoning.

Absolutely Moze! Here in South Florida, most municipalities website will just direct you to municode or amlegal. And if you call, sometimes I got lucky and spoke with someone who was willing to just TELL ME the square footage formula used, but most of the time just direct me their, then have me find it myself. :thankyou:

And some cities don't go by districts (at least down here), but some do. Quick phone to call to Zoning Dept. will confirm which zone the address falls in. Aww permitting.........so much fun!! :banghead:
 

OlsonSigns601

New Member
I'll never be the authority on sign permits in any city. I will never assume to give legal advise on government regulation. I'll suggest and advise to check with their local government before installing.

If a city doesn't require us to be licensed to install signs, then it doesn't really matter who installs it then its the owner who will get the fine. (Now we'll tell them they have to get one but I'm not going to argue with them if they think they don't need one.)

If the city requires us to be licensed to install signs, we make sure we have a sign permit before we even produce the sign.
 

Tony Rome

New Member
OK so I talked to him and we are fine with all permits, etc...
Here is a pic of a sign that is currently on the building.
I want to make mine similar.
Doing some research it looks like I may want to order a .25" wood sign with aluminum face?
That is what Harbor was describing it.
My initial idea was just getting an 040 or 060 aluminum but whatever is up there now is around .25".

They used a 2 pieces of wood that run the whole way under the sign, I am not sure if I want to do it that way, any recommendations both on what way to hang and what material I should use?
It is 2' x 9' outside.
THANKS!
 

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MikePro

New Member
- painted MDO with graphics.
- mount extruded aluminum tube to building. full lengths or just a few pieces for corners/center, toggle-anchor'd.
- sign is then either screwed directly to aluminum tube or fasten angles to the backside of the sign to "cap" the aluminum tubing you've mounted and zip-screw in place from top/bottom.

or, i guess, you could just simply use angles for it all. I just happen to have a LOT of aluminum tube around the shop, so it is easy to use scrap cutoffs for mounting blocks.
although, if it was me, I would make an aluminum pan-sign (bent/welded returns around entire perimeter) that would cap over the hardware I mount to the building, and secured with screws/rivots.

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Tony Rome

New Member
- painted MDO with graphics.
- mount extruded aluminum tube to building. full lengths or just a few pieces for corners/center, toggle-anchor'd.
- sign is then either screwed directly to aluminum tube or fasten angles to the backside of the sign to "cap" the aluminum tubing you've mounted and zip-screw in place from top/bottom.

or, i guess, you could just simply use angles for it all. I just happen to have a LOT of aluminum tube around the shop, so it is easy to use scrap cutoffs for mounting blocks.
although, if it was me, I would make an aluminum pan-sign (bent/welded returns around entire perimeter) that would cap over the hardware I mount to the building, and secured with screws/rivots.

attachment.php

Thanks Mike, so is MDO the name of the material I want to use?
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I would not use 1/4" MDO. I think it only comes 3/8" and bigger. However, it generally wants to warp and if it can't warp. it bulges a little. If ya need 1/4", go with alumalite, that's 1/4", you don't have to paint it and it takes that edge capping very well.

MDO, I wouldn't go less than 1/2"
 

MikePro

New Member
yeah, MDO could work just fine... if you don't want to use dibond/alumacore/etc.
the substrate is completely up to your budget/preferences.

MDO, wood, being the least expensive (i believe?)
I'd use at least 1/2" MDO, if not 3/4".
most sign suppliers can provide this already primed/painted.
 

Tony Rome

New Member
Thanks guys I have the material down, thanks to all the help.
I just need to get through the install part.
Thanks again!
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
yeah, MDO could work just fine... if you don't want to use dibond/alumacore/etc.
the substrate is completely up to your budget/preferences.

MDO, wood, being the least expensive (i believe?)
I'd use at least 1/2" MDO, if not 3/4".
most sign suppliers can provide this already primed/painted.
None of our suppliers have pre-painted MDO in 4' x 10' size. Only 4' x 8'.
 

Tony Rome

New Member
I was thinking of attaching the 1.5 x 1.5 mounting wood pieces running horizontally (like the picture) and I like the "L" brackets on the back so I do not have to drill into the front.

So would the way to do this be going and attaching the wood mounting pieces and then just measuring the gap and then using that measurement to know where to attach the L brackets on the back of the sign and than (hope) it all matches up and screw them in?
Thanks!
 

MikePro

New Member
i'd mount the brackets on the siding first, since you're bound by where the best "flat spots" are between the seams of the siding. measure the gap and then fasten angles to the back of the sign to match.

noted: you'll end up crushing the siding when you torque your brackets/toggles down, but you gotta do it to make sure the sign don't go anywhere. so moving the building-mounted brackets inward would be ideal to hide the damage better.

any penetrations through the siding should also be addressed. silicone caulk or a gasket, maybe? water will find its way into the penetrations if left unsealed, and the siding is there in the first place to protect what's underneath from the elements.
 

Tony Rome

New Member
Thanks Mike and Gino, I feel pretty comfortable now.
I appreciate the detailed info!
Thanks to everyone else who helped out as well!
 
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