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Looking for a "good" X-Acto knife?

tulsagraphics

New Member
I use the Olfa XA-1 with 30 degree blades for just about everything. Bigger knives and blades I only found useful for cutting long straight lines with a ruler and I only ever use the art knives for weeding. 30 degree blades will do everything in a retractable and easy to carry knife.
Ya, those are good. The Japanese blue/black spring steel blades are crazy sharp and hold their edge like no other -- but I mostly use the Olfa SAC-1 w/ 30 degree blade since it's so slim/portable.
 
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Like you I've use xacto knifes for 30 years and I'm always in search of something better. I bought this a couple months ago and have had a good experience so far. Cushioned triangle shape, easy blade locking system, and blade cover. Definitely worth the $8.50 I paid for it.

Fiskars 165110-1001​

 

rvolkers

New Member
first of all the exacto has been around for ages - it was never really intended to be an all around cutting knife - it was invented and was to be used for cutting tpye gallies and slugs from the old days when types was setand a the paper was applied to a mechanical board -- it was also stated that the knife was to used by making a series of cuts in harder material - it will not make precise cuts onntougher amterials with one cut - each tool we use has a purpose !
 

kcollinsdesign

Old member
The regular #1 X-acto with a #11 blade is the most useful cutting tool in our shop. It is particularly well suited for weeding, processing, and installing vinyl graphics. Works OK for cutting light substrate (I prefer a regular box knife for that). Because we buy these in bulk and they are all over the shop, they get used for all kinds of cutting tasks that I'm sure there is a better tool for, but it is often the case that the best tool for the job is the one at hand.

One feature of the #11 that can be over-looked is the round barrel, which allows for finer micro-adjustment with your hand than a flat or "faceted" knife which requires grosser motor controls. This is admittedly at the sacrifice of grip assurance, but this knife is designed for detail work that does not usually require a firm, secure grip.

My second place knife is the Gripster. I keep a few of those around. I like them because they don't roll off the table. But I like the feel of the plain aluminum barrel of the #1 better - I get more feedback from it.

I always say I'm going to put a rubber band around the end of my #1s, but I never do. I usually just lay mine down and let it roll around, or sometimes, if I think about it, I will lay them on the groove in the squeegee. Knife management is a learned skill, and somehow, especially with the #1s, they just appear in my hands when I need them.
 

ChicagoGraphics

New Member
I've used many different brands of X-Acto knives over these 18+ years. Never liked any of 'em. Blade slips out no matter how tight you turn it, rubber grip fails, barrel cracks etc.
View attachment 136695

What is the little slot for in these blades? Why can't they make a knife that utilizes that feature to lock it in? Why not incorporate an "anti-roll" feature to prevent it from rolling off the table every time you set it down?
They do have ones that are anti roll
 

CMY_K?

New Member
No OLFA fans here? I've had the same one for 11 years and love it....I actually carry 2 knives...the OLFA with the "art" style blades and a generic utility knife (got a freebie from Glantz that I currently use). So I'll use the utility knife for packaging, rough cutting, cardboard, and the heavier and less precise stuff. Then I'll use the OLFA for vehicle wraps, vinyl cutting/weeding, and other fine detail stuff. The OLFA being retractable will slip back into it's sleeve if you press too hard, but it's not meant for heavy work and so one shouldn't be pressing that hard anyway.
I’m Olfa 30 degree all the way!
 

GAC05

Quit buggin' me
If your exacto keeps rolling away take it to your bench vice and squeeze until it learns to 'sit' & 'stay'
 
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