bayshorecreations
New Member
I hope so! It would be a huge help if someone who has done it before can guide me on this process. I guess I need to get a new one ordered...
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Update- Changed the heads, now having a differnt problem....
- Thread starter bayshorecreations
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Need a service manual. Email me.
bayshorecreations
New Member
I have the service manual but I cant find any info about changing those fuses anywhere in it. Am I missing something?
bayshorecreations
New Member
Here is another thought... Can I jump the fuse to make sure that it is the fuse (and to get a job out that is super late) that is causing me this headache?
Also, where can I get the fuse from? Anyone know what the specs are for it? I saw that cmykparts has them but they want $29 to ship a fuse! I will call them in the morning to confirm that but it sounds like a lot of $$$ to ship a fuse...lol
Also, where can I get the fuse from? Anyone know what the specs are for it? I saw that cmykparts has them but they want $29 to ship a fuse! I will call them in the morning to confirm that but it sounds like a lot of $$$ to ship a fuse...lol
Headhunterx
New Member
I can help you with this, but are you good with a soldering iron?
Richard
Richard
bayshorecreations
New Member
I have a feeling I will be by the time im done with this...lol
Please help!
I will PM you!
Please help!
I will PM you!
Headhunterx
New Member
Before you try this check it with a meter for continuity set it so it beeps if it does your fuse is good. Touch your leeds to the silver prongs on the side of the square black fuse.
You need to use a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the black part of the fuse and with a LITTLE pressure barely pull up on one side of the fuse while you touch the solder at the bottom of the little square fuse where the solder pad is (the little silver square on the board) as soon as it releases do the other side (THIS IS TO BE DONE GENTLY) once you have the fuse off you can do one of 2 things get another fuse like it and pay a ridiculous price or go the Radio Shack and buy a 5 amp (THANKS RANDY FOR THE SPECS.) fast acting fuse and a fuse holder(About $5) and solder the wires to the solder pads and that way if it happens again just open the fuse holder and replace the fuse without ever having to solder on the mother board again. In my opinion that is the way it should have been made in the first place. Now if you don't have the skills or patience I don't advise this I have been doing electronics for many years so it did not scare me to do this. BUT PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Richard
You need to use a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the black part of the fuse and with a LITTLE pressure barely pull up on one side of the fuse while you touch the solder at the bottom of the little square fuse where the solder pad is (the little silver square on the board) as soon as it releases do the other side (THIS IS TO BE DONE GENTLY) once you have the fuse off you can do one of 2 things get another fuse like it and pay a ridiculous price or go the Radio Shack and buy a 5 amp (THANKS RANDY FOR THE SPECS.) fast acting fuse and a fuse holder(About $5) and solder the wires to the solder pads and that way if it happens again just open the fuse holder and replace the fuse without ever having to solder on the mother board again. In my opinion that is the way it should have been made in the first place. Now if you don't have the skills or patience I don't advise this I have been doing electronics for many years so it did not scare me to do this. BUT PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Richard
bayshorecreations
New Member
Great! I am going to go get some sleep, I think I have a long day ahead of me tomorrow... lol Thank you all for your continued help with this! I really appreciate it!
I will update tomorrow... Wish me luck guys
I will update tomorrow... Wish me luck guys
Graphics2u
New Member
They charge for Fed Ex overnight on their shipments. Just depends on how bad you need it. Not sure where else they can be purchased, but the Radioshack idea sounds good if it will work. If that came from Randy I'd say you'd be fine. Definately don't try it by jumping the fuse, if there is still a reason the fuse blew you may short out mainboard or a head.
Ain't this place great! :signs101:
Headhunterx
New Member
I know it works I am running 2 FalconII's and both of them have this set up.
Richard
Richard
Could you please post some pics of this mod so we can see it. Maybe what parts were used too. It would be extremely helpful to myself and many others I'm sure!
Thanks!
bayshorecreations
New Member
YAAAAAHOOOOOO! Changed the print head fuse and we are back in business!!!!
I will post pictures of the whole ordeal a little later!
Thank you all very much for all of your help with this! This board and the members are awesome!
I will post pictures of the whole ordeal a little later!
Thank you all very much for all of your help with this! This board and the members are awesome!
FANTASTIC....
When you get the documentation together, PM me and I will add it to the Mutoh Knowledge base....
bayshorecreations
New Member
I will do that Randy! Anyone have the adjustments that need to be made after installing new print heads written in plain english? I am trying to follow the manual but it is confusing the heck out of me...
bayshorecreations
New Member
Like when I go in to set certain parameter like lets say the media skew when I go through the motions that the manual tells me to I end up with a number being shown to me on the printer screen. What do I do from there? Am I supposed to change that number to something different of just press enter to finish that parameter adjustment?
I have the head rank set and the home position set but thats all so far.
I know there is more to set up just not sure what or how, right now if I start the printer normally it gives me an undefined paper error 9 out of 10 times. If it does not give me that error it starts feeding media for like 10 feet out of the machine (not sure what thats all about) but If I start up in diagnostic mode I can set parameters and stuff am just not sure what to set next and how.
I have the head rank set and the home position set but thats all so far.
I know there is more to set up just not sure what or how, right now if I start the printer normally it gives me an undefined paper error 9 out of 10 times. If it does not give me that error it starts feeding media for like 10 feet out of the machine (not sure what thats all about) but If I start up in diagnostic mode I can set parameters and stuff am just not sure what to set next and how.
Last edited:
bayshorecreations
New Member
Bump for the morning crowd...:U Rock:
undefined paper (I believe) is usually media loaded too far to the left or right...it should be within 1/4" of the line of wholes on the dryer platen.
The SKEW number is how far will the media deviate from the 'original' edge before erroring out, you want to keep this reasonable or else your media will buckle and head strike if it skews out too much.
Set your media for ROLL, when set for SHEET it will try and find the back edge, but (I believe) it will give up after about 10 ft, thinking that is a big enough sheet.
The parameters that you want to be concerned with are head ranks and alignments primarily.
There are mechanical alignments where you will have to physically adjust tilt of each head and the alignment of each head front to back.
There are electrical timing alignments to adjust the firing of nozzles so that they align UNI directional and BI directional...this determines where each of the 'colors' of droplets land....these are critical for clear quality printing.
The SKEW number is how far will the media deviate from the 'original' edge before erroring out, you want to keep this reasonable or else your media will buckle and head strike if it skews out too much.
Set your media for ROLL, when set for SHEET it will try and find the back edge, but (I believe) it will give up after about 10 ft, thinking that is a big enough sheet.
The parameters that you want to be concerned with are head ranks and alignments primarily.
There are mechanical alignments where you will have to physically adjust tilt of each head and the alignment of each head front to back.
There are electrical timing alignments to adjust the firing of nozzles so that they align UNI directional and BI directional...this determines where each of the 'colors' of droplets land....these are critical for clear quality printing.
bayshorecreations
New Member
OK we are up and running! I need a little help with one last thing, I got the heads alligned left and right perfectly but how do I do the adjustment back and forth? I need to line them up but not sure how. I will attach a picture of my test print to show what I need to do.
